Every seconds Worth, it’s Climb O’Clock !

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We are on GOOGLE MAP

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Climb O’Clock Training / Bouldering Facility usage POLICIES

MOGS Showroom / Climb O’Clock Climbing Training Wall တြင္ေလ့က်င့္တက္ေရာက္ရန္အတြက္ ေအာက္ပါစည္းကမ္းခ်က္မ်ားကို ဖတ္႐ႈ သေဘာေပါက္လိုက္နာရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။

• ေရွးဦးစြာ Bouldering အားကစားအားသေဘာေပါက္ရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။ Boulderingဆိုသည္မွာ ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္အားကစားနည္းမ်ားထဲမွ ေတာင္တက္ၾကိဳး/ေတာင္တက္ခ်ိတ္/Helmet စသည္တို႕မသုံးပဲတက္ရသည့္ ေတာင္တက္အားကစားတစ္ရပ္ျဖစ္ပါသည္။
•Bouldering တြင္ Safetyအတြက္ ( ေအာက္ခံေဖာ့ျပားအထူ ) Crash Pad မ်ားကိုအက်မနာေစရန္သုံးပါသည္။
• Bouldering အပါအဝင္ Sport Climbing / Speed Climbing အစရွိသည့္ ေတာင္တက္အားကစားနည္းမ်ားသည္ အႏၲရာယ္ရွိေသာ အားကစားနည္းျဖစ္ပါသည္။ ေလ့က်င့္ေနစဥ္/တက္ေရာက္ေနစဥ္အတြင္း ဒဏ္ရာအနာတရၾကီးငယ္မ်ားအပါအဝင္ အသက္အႏၲရာယ္အထိျဖစ္ႏိုင္သည္ကို သေဘာေပါက္နားလည္ရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။ ထိခိုက္မႈတစ္စံုတစ္ရာရွိခဲ့ပါက ကာယကံရွင္၏တာဝန္သာျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း MOGS showroom / Climb O’Clock Training ႏွင့္တကြ ပိုင္ရွင္/နည္းျပ/ ဝန္ထမ္းမ်ားႏွင့္သက္ဆိုင္ျခင္းအလ်င္းမရွိပါေၾကာင္းကို နားလည္သေဘာေပါက္၍ သေဘာတူညီလက္မွတ္ေရးထိုးရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
• ေလ့က်င့္တက္ေရာက္ရန္ ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္ Rock Climbing Shoe ကိုသာအသုံးျပဳရပါမည္။
• ေအာက္ခံေဖာ့ျပား (Crash Pad)ေပၚတြင္ ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္(သို႕မဟုတ္)ေျခဗလာျဖင့္သာနင္းခြင့္ျပဳပါသည္။သင္၏ဖိနပ္ေၾကာင့္ ေအာက္ခံေဖာ့ျပားေပါက္ျပဲပါက တန္ဖိုးအတိုင္းေပးေလ်ာ္ရပါမည္။
• ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ေျမျဖဴအမ်ိဳးအစားမ်ားထဲမွ Liquid Chalk ကိုသာအသုံးျပဳရမည္။ ( Loose Chalk မ်ား / Chalk Ball မ်ားအသုံးျပဳခြင့္မျပဳပါ။ )
• RENTAL SHOES – ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္ငွါးရမ္းအသုံးျပဳရာတြင္ တာဝန္က်ဝန္ထမ္းမ်ား၏လမ္းညႊန္ခ်က္အတိုင္းလိုက္နာရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။ (ဖိနပ္ေခ်ာင္ေခ်ာင္စီးပါက ရာဘာဆိုးမ်ားအလြယ္တကူပ်က္စီးေစပါသည္)
• ေလ့က်င့္တက္ေရာက္ရန္ တာဝန္က်ဝန္ထမ္းမွ အေျခခံမ်ားကို ကူညီရွင္းျပမည္ျဖစ္ေသာ္လည္း သင္တန္းနည္းျပျခင္းျပဳလုပ္မည္မဟုတ္ပါ။
• စနစ္တက်အခ်ိန္ေပးေလ့က်င့္လိုပါက သင္တန္းဆရာ Climbing Instructor မ်ားႏွင့္ ရက္ခ်ိန္းယူ၍ နည္းျပေၾကးထပ္ေဆာင္းေပးကာေလ့က်င့္ရန္ျဖစ္ပါသည္။
• မေတာ္တဆထိခိုက္မႈအတြက္တက္မည့္ကာယကံရွင္ကၾကိဳတင္သိရွိျပီးေၾကာင္း ကုမၸဏီ၏တာဝန္မဟုတ္ေၾကာင္းဝန္ခံလက္မွတ္ထိုးရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
• (၁၈ႏွစ္ေအာက္ လူရြယ္/ကေလးမ်ား မိဘ(သို႕မဟုတ္) အုပ္ထိန္းသူ၏ ခြင့္ျပဳခ်က္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။

ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ေလ့က်င့္နံရံ အသုံးျပဳခႏႈန္းထားမ်ား
ဝင္ေၾကး ( DAY PASS – unlimited hours ) ၃,၀၀၀ က်ပ္ (ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ေဖိနပ္/ Liquid Chalk အစံုအလင္ရွိသူမ်ား)
Liquid Chalk အသုံးျပဳခ – ၁,၀၀၀ က်ပ္
Rental Shoes ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္ငွါးရမ္းခ -၂,၀၀၀ က်ပ္

BEGINNER PACKAGE ( DayPass + Chalk + Shoes = ၅,၀၀၀ က်ပ္ )

အသက္၉ႏွစ္ေအာက္(သို႕မဟုတ္) ၄ေပေအာက္ကေလးမ်ား-KIDS DAY PASS ၂၀၀၀က်ပ္ ( KIDS PACKAGE > DayPass + Chalk + Shoes =၄၀၀၀က်ပ္)

သင္တန္းနည္းျပေၾကးမ်ား
တစ္နာရီလ်င္ – ၅၀၀၀က်ပ္ (သင္တန္းသားအမ်ားဆုံး၃ဦးသာ) ၾကိဳတင္ရက္ခ်ိန္းၾကိဳယူရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။

Prices for Foreigners
Day Pass – (Adults) 5,000 MMK
Day Pass – (Kids) 4,000 MMK
Climbing Shoe Rental -2,000 MMK
Chalk Rental – 2,000 MMK (only liquid chalk)

Package – Adults – 8,000 MMK (DayPass+Shoe+Chalk)
Package – Kids – 7,000 MMK (DayPass+Shoe+Chalk)
(Coaching-Personal Instructors upon request (5,000 MMK per hour )

Operation Hours
MON >6pm to 9pm
TUE-FRI >4pm to 9pm
SAT/SUN > 11am to 9pm

ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ေလ့က်င့္နံရံ ဖြင့္လွစ္ခ်ိန္မ်ား
•တနလၤာ – ညေန ၆ နာရီမွ ည ၉နာရီ ထိ
•အဂၤါ/ဗုဒၶဟူး/ၾကာသာပေတး/ေသာၾကာ – မြန္းလြဲ ၃နာရီမွ ည ၉နာရီ ထိ
•စေန/တနဂၤေႏြ – မနက္ ၁၀နာရီမွ ည ၉နာရီ ထိ

ေလ့က်င့္ရန္ထားရွိသည့္Training Facility မ်ား
Climbing Wall Surface – ၃၄၀စတုရန္းေပ (340 sq/ft Plywood Bouldering Walls )
HRT Climbing Holds
FingerBoard & Hangboards ( Beastmaker / HRT )
Campus Rungs ( all facilities in Fully Air Conditioned Room with Dolby Surround Sound System , Gear Shop, Mini Libraryတို႕ပါဝင္ပါတယ္။ )

Rock Climbing & Bouldering Basic Course အေျခခံသင္တန္းမ်ားကို ႏိုင္ငံတကာအေတြ႕အၾကံုရင့္နည္းျပဆရာမ်ားက အပတ္စဥ္ဗုဒၶဟူးေန႕ညေန ၆နာရီကေန၇နာရီအထိဝင္ေၾကးေပးတက္ေရာက္သူတိုင္းကိုအခမဲ့သင္ၾကားေပးမွာျဖစ္ပါတယ္။အခမဲ့သင္တန္းအတြက္ သင္တန္းသားဦးေရ တစ္ပတ္လ်င္ ၅ဦးသာကန္႕သန္႕ထားပါသည္၊ ၾကိဳတင္စာရင္းေပးသြင္းရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။

Indoor Climbing Wall တြင္ လူၾကီးလူငယ္ အရြယ္မေရြး / က်ားမ မေရြးေလ့က်င့္အသုံးျပဳႏိုင္ပါသည္။
ေတာင္တက္အားကစားထြန္းကားပ်ံ႕ပြါးလာေစရန္နင့္ေတာင္တက္နည္းစနစ္မ်ားကိုပိုမိုေလ့လာႏိုင္ေစရန္တို႕အျပင္၂၀၂၀အိုလံပစ္မွအစျပဳျပီးအနာဂတ္အားကစားျပိဳင္ပြဲမ်ားတြင္ျမန္မာႏိုင္ငံေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္အားကစားသမားမ်ား ႏိုင္ငံတကာအဆင့္ေပၚထြက္လာေစရန္အုပ္တစ္ခ်ပ္သဲတစ္ပြင့္အေထာက္အပံ့ျဖစ္ေစရန္လည္း ရည္ရြယ္ပါသည္။

 

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MOGS new showroom map directions ( arrows )

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Posted in Bouldering, Climbing, Myanmar, News, Places, Rock Climbing, Yangon | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Another all Myanmar Expedition to set off to Hkakaborazi coming 2018. 

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Mt. Victoria (Song)

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Woodies in Town (part of Myanmar Climbing and Bouldering Scene )

Myanmar Climbing sprout is flourishing. It kept growing day by day since the  pre TCCM era with Saya Steve to TCCM and now MRC era.

TCCM / MRC ??? what are they !!

Some Myanmar facebook users join MRC FB group – expected to see Rock Stars and to listen Burmese Rock songs. ( Myanmar Rock Community literally make’s it confused but still Rock Stars climbing images never let you down ). In fact MRC is not only  Rocking, also from Reggae , Hip-Hop and even Burmese Punks.   MRC is an Expat Dominant community ( pretty similar to neighboring climbing communities in SEAsia countries ). I take this as a great opportunity for local Myanmar Climbers to learn multi-cultures and improving climbing , with friends from various backgrounds. If MRC FB group founding date would be MRC’s birthday- it’d be 2nd Feb 2016. In nearly one year – MRC performs rapid growth in climbing scene- proved it with Hpa-An crags & sends and also with growing number of Climbers and their home Woodies.

TCCM & MRC ( from L to R -Andrew,Doelone & WinKo ) on a day of  TCCM Bolting Gears handover to Andrew

TCCM  members take the throne with Myanmar Everest & GamlangRazi First Ascents. Actually TCCM used to active in Sport Climbing scene in its beginning back in 2012, some first Bolted lines in Waterfall Hill but not seeing TCCMers at the crags these days.  14 Nov 2011 is TCCM’s birthday and during this 6 years TCCM primarily nailed some Big Mountains rather than crags.

There are many others climbers in Myanmar, local or expat / individuals or groupies – who climb on their own and or – with TCCM – MRC or anyone else, just like anywhere else in the world.

What makes difference ???? What drive Yangon climbers crazy ???

It’s the city -capital Yangon itself – with completely flat feature. This crowded city had no single gym / a crag/ or a  rock to climb. ( I repeat – no Climbing Gym yet ).

Yangon’ is also  home to MRC & TCCM .

Unfortunately MRC & TCCM & all climbing aficionados are pretty fucked up for training because of  Yangon’s very bad geographical-feature.

(Distance to Crags – HpaAn is 465 km , Mandalay-625 km from Yangon.)

Solution is here –  Woodies  

Woodies !! Woodies !!  Woodies !! 

Yangon then having an awesome collection of neat – creative and pumpy home-walls. ( also one in Mandalay ). In Yangon, some walls are open for friends on Thursday Nights.

Yangon-Mandalay – all woodies offering  bouldering at it’s best.  There are already places to climb in Yangon  -like  Balance Fitness II  and  DOREMI Family club, but i have to say these places are too commercial and not as cool as our Myanmar Woodies in Towns.

Before the first woody in Yangon by TCCM – there are some few  in-home climbing wall / woodies attempts by Tun & Lin (with the very limited resources ) – which later ended up for their kids – ( which is still cool.)

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ko-tun-wall

Ko Tun Tun home wall – later upgraded with Tnuts-Climbing holds with overhanging roof in South Okkala/Thingangyun area – equipped with home made jumbo crash pad.

In late 2013- TCCM home wall is out – served with several cool sessions at AungZayYa Street, Yankin.


The VERY SECOND -probably the best and everyone’s favorite Woody in Town later came out in Dec 2015 at Andrew’s flat – there was even a comp held around 2016 New Year days with cool collection of Climbing Books and accessories prizes ( contributed by a secret climber ). This awesome MRC woody / Andrew+Katie’s woody  is in Myaynigone Zay area , Sanchaung.

MRC woody / Andrew+Katie’s woody       (photo Credit to Andrew & MRC folks)

At the same time, Ye Htut from Mandalay is working on his home wall, and currently finished as below images. Quite cool – isn’t it.  Mandalay got no stress to reach a crag like Yangon. But this woody at Ye Htut house is simply the best example for the love of climbing – doesn’t matter how far or near to the crags are. Well done Ye Htut, your’e the best and become beast soon !

YeHtut’s woody (Mandalay)                          (photo Credit to Ye Htut)

The flow of the Yangon woodies doesn’t stop. It come out even better. In mid 2016, there is the first open-air woody showed up by Cat & Ben. This rooftop one offers adrenaline with a great view of Yangon twinkling streetlights at Nyaung Tone street, Sanchaung (8th floor).

Cat & Bens woody                     (photo Credit to Andrew, Cat , Ben & PyaePhyo )

Cat & Ben’s wall with ShweDagon Pagoda view in the background

This growing woody culture is not ending yet. Jon welcomes MRC members to his neat woody at 6 Kyaun Kone Road (top floor) in Sanchaung and it’s also become part of the Yangon’s most favorite bouldering spot.

Jon’s woody           (photo Credit to Jon Keesecker )

 

jons-wall

Meanwhile- a struggling outdoor gear company in Yangon is also coming up with it’s exciting woody. This wall is at MOGS showroom in MyanmaGonYe St, KanTawKalay.

MOGS woody

Last minutes update about Yangon’s newest woody at Nadia’s home. This tall wall in Malikha Street. Probably the tallest woody so far -a non-overhanging version ( 90′ vertical ) with top rope option.

Rob & Nadia’s woody   (photo courtesy- Nadia )

Size of the wall (Men-at-Work for Scale)

I am ending my article here – but i don’t think these woodies are not ended yet. There are some more to come  – yet – Some Exciting – soon.

mdy

ygn

#1-Yankin Township,  #2-#3#4-Snachaung Township, #5 Mayangone Township- YGN.

P.S > For anyone interest in climbing / training / bouldering or just hanging out with these woodies, please join MRC fb group and or check with TCCM or MOGS pages. MRC has bouldering sessions every THURSDAYS ( taking turns for hosting week by week – at Andrew flat – Cat&Ben’s rooftop or Jon’s ).

Posted in Bouldering, Climbing, Myanmar, Rock Climbing | Leave a comment

GaBarNi(ကမ္းပါးနီ)Myanmar Ancient Art

GaBarNi / KammParrNe  (ဂဘားနီ / ကမ္းပါးနီ )

( Hidden Archaeological Site ) 15683142_10206332418068652_1537823444_n

 GaBarNi   (21.067261N    96.262061E)

Coordinates 

21° 4’2.14″N  

96°15’43.42″E

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ATTENTION- NOT FOR CLIMBING

Regarding above photo caption, you may ask why this boulder is NOT FOR CLIMBING.

GaBarNi actually is a Sandstone boulder filed which most climbers will definitely fall in love.

GaBarNi area grabs my attention with its Gigantic Size Boulder, which comes to my mind as a Highballing Fantasy.

Later I put a very high value to GaBaNi ,  ( not as a climbing site  despite  a  giant highball and many more boulders are there ) but because of  it’s Discoveries on Archaeological values. This boulder deserve high level of conservation as a National Treasure as one of the Myanmar Ancestor’s archaeological and anthropological proofs .

size-matter

SIZE  of GaBaNi ( a giant boulder with Ancient Art from Stone Age )

It’s first discovery was just in recent years, in 2015 by U Win Bo , the local villager along with WunDwin local Artist/ amateur Archaeologist – U Soe Moe Naing. Those two were the first persons  brought our attention to the site by public. Later recognized by Government sectors to International and National level Archaeologist and Anthropologists. Gabarni site is now under supervision of  Myanmar Government and Local Authorities for conservation carried out by  Department of Archaeology and the Ministry of Culture.

 

 Let’s not climb it.

Let’s help to raise awareness and part of Conversation.

 

This site is named after KammParrNe ( GaBarNe ) – a nearby village, in western Shan State. Gabini has a nearby Famous Padalin Caves with many prehistoric rock art which in about 11km distance.

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Gabarni Location ( 21.067261N / 96.262061E )

 

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In the central Myanmar

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Nearby ” Kin Tarr ” Dam (Photo _Irawaddy News)

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GaBarNi site and nearby KinTarrDam as seen in GE

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Approach Hike to Gabarni site often includes steep terrains (Photo-Irrawaddy News)

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Nearest Towns are WunDwin Tsp (Mandalay Division ) and YwarNgan Tsp ( Shan State)

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Parietal art from Gabarni

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Stone Age Arts – Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing

 

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Stone Age Arts / Hunting / Fire/ Animals and Stone Age tools  (Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing)

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Stone Weapon Tools drawn on Gabarni boulder – Stone Age     ***(Photo Credit  KoSoeMoeNaing ) 

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Stone Age Drawings on the Boulders (Credit – KoSoeMoeNaing)

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Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing

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Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing

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Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing

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Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing

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Stone Weapons Tools Discovered in KaBarNi area (Photo- Irrawaddy News)

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9 feet tall and 14 feet wide (Elephant like Stone Age Drawing )  Photo-MyawaddyMedia

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One of the significant Overhanging Boulder of GaBarNi area ( Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing )

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Photo Credit – Ko Soe Moe Naing

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More Excavation Processes carrying out by Department of Archaeology , Ministry of Culture MoC (Photo Credit MoC)

As per 23-Dec-2-16 News update from Department of Archaeology , Ministry of Culture ( Mandalay Department ). Department Official reveal the  project to establish paved roads and also with washroom facilities. The project funded 4000 USD for the development of Archaeological Tourism and income generating of local communities while maintaining least impact to ecosystem.

 

 

 

 

 to be NOTICE – Gabarni area is  NOT FOR CLIMBING*** * (Reminder for you in Case if you get lost there and unexpectedly find this boulder in Myanmar Central Basin)

 

More Article about Gabarni here

Posted in Environmental, History, Myanmar, News | Leave a comment

ေတာင္တက္Meme

17mk7l

ဒီ မီးင္ ထဲက (ေမာင္ေမာင္က ကိုဝင္းကို ကိုျပည့္ျဖိဳးတင္မကပဲ အျခားေသာ ေတာင္တက္သမားေတြကိုပါဆိုလိုပါတယ္။ )

သူတို႕က ျမန္မာျပည္ထဲမွာ တစ္ကယ္လုပ္ကိုင္ေနၾကသူေတြဆိုေတာ့ အလုပ္ရွုပ္သလို အခင္အမင္မပ်က္ခ်င္တာ စတာေတြေၾကာင့္ ေဝဖန္တာမလုပ္တာတို႕ ဝါသနာအရကိုပံုေတြစာေတြမတင္ၾကတာပါ
ကြၽန္ေတာ္က ေမာင္ေမာင္မဟုတ္ပဲ ဒိုးလုံး ျဖစ္ေနတဲ့အတြက္ ေဝဖန္ပါတယ္။

စိတ္ဝင္စားရင္ ဆက္ၾကည့္ပါ။

17mipu
အခုလက္ရွိမွာ ေတာင္တက္ခရီးစဥ္ေတြ တိုးတက္လာပါတယ္။ အေရအတြက္ေကာအရည္အခ်င္းေကာပါ။

(မႏၲေလးက ေတာင္တက္သမားေတြ စပြန္စာမပါပဲ လိုလာေတာင္ကိုတက္ခဲ့တယ္ ) ဒါက ကိုယ့္နည္းကိုယ့္ဟန္နဲ႕ အေတြ႕အၾကံုကိုဝယ္ယူခဲ့ရတာပါ။ တစ္ေခါက္ ႏွစ္ေခါက္က ျပသနာမရွိပါ။
ခရီးစဥ္ တစ္ေခါက္စာေတြမွာ အဆင္ေျပေနေပမဲ့ ေရရွည္အတြက္ကေတာ့ အဆင္မေျပေသးပါဘူး။
စပြန္စာရွိတဲ့ခရီးေတြထဲက ထူးေဖာင္ေဒးရွင္းက ဧဝရတ္တက္ဖို႕ စပြန္စာေပးပါတယ္။
အားကစားသမားေတြအေနနဲ႕က စပြန္စာက ခရီးတစ္ေခါက္စာပဲရတာပါ။ သူတို႕ပစ္ထားခဲ့ရအလုပ္ ယူခဲ့တဲ့ Risk ကို မကာမိတာကေတာ့ အထူးအေထြေျပာေနစရာကိုမလိုတာ ကေလးေတာင္သိပါတယ္။

17mj0w

ဒါေပမဲ့လည္း ဘယ္သူမွ $ ဖက္မလုပ္ၾကပါဘူး။

 

17mjno

 

ဒီေတာ့ professional အဆင့္ထိေရာက္လာေအာင္ ဘာေတြလုပ္ၾကမလဲ။

  • formal training ေတြ ေပးႏိုင္တဲ့အဆင့္ထိေရာက္ေအာင္ႀကိဳးပမ္းပါ
  • qualified ျဖစ္သလို certified လည္း ျဖစ္ဖို႔လိုလာပါၿပီ
  • sponsor ေတြနဲ႔ contract မခ်ဳပ္ႏိုင္သေရြ႕ေတာ့ သင္ဟာ pro ဟုမဆိုႏိုင္ေသး
  • ခရီးေတြအတြက္လည္း fully insured ျဖစ္ပါေစ
  •  Retirement အဆင့္အထိ ေတြးေတာပါ

ဘာရယ္မဟုတ္ဘူး အခုအခ်ိန္ထိ pro climber ေတြထြက္မလာေသးလို႔ အားမလိုအားမရျဖစ္တာနဲ႔ meme တစ္ခ်ိဳ႕နဲ႔ ခ်ေရးလိုက္တာပါ။ လိုအပ္ခ်က္ေတြကို အၾကံေပးၾကပါဦး။

17mhge

ေတာင္တက္မေဟ့လို ဆိုလိုက္ရင္ ဖိုးလိုက္ခ်င္ေတြရွိၾကပါတယ္။ ဆင္ပစ္မယ္ က်ားျမႇီးအစိမ္းစားမယ္နဲ႕
တကယ္သြားမယ္လည္းလုပ္ေရာ ဖင္နာလို႕ ခါးနာလို႕ ဆုံးသြားတဲ့အဖိုးေနမေကာင္းလို႕ ဆိုျပီး တေရွာင္ေရွာင္ ျဖစ္သြားတာလည္းမေကာင္းပါဘူး။   ေတာင္တက္သမားေတြဖက္ကလည္းပဲ professional ဆန္ဖို႕လိုပါတယ္။ (notice the scumbag hats)

17mkre

ဒီစပ္ကူးမတ္ကူးကာလမွာ ဘယ္ေတာ့ေျပာင္းလဲမလဲ ဘယ္ေတာ့လမ္းပြင့္လာမလဲ ထိုင္ေစာင့္ေနရင္တာထက္စာရင္  ပိတ္ထားတဲ့ တံခါးေတြကို တြန္းဖြင့္ဝင္မွသာ အခြင့္အလမ္းေတြ ေပၚေပါက္လာမွာျဖစ္ပါေၾကာင္း

Posted in Climbing | Tagged , | Leave a comment

DESERT to EVEREST (personal account on Myanmar First Everest Ascent)

 

It is always in most adventure junkie’s DREAM to do something BIG “whoa-things” or something COOL, like climbing Highest Mountain in the World or Rappelling into Deepest Caves or  Hike through PCT in shortest duration. As a dedicated boulderer like me, I always seeks something which I feel FUN doesn’t matter which is big or small. A small plastic climbing holds from Rock Republic to House Size Boulders in RAK or High Balls in Hampi can satisfy me.   As I am working in Dubai as an office clerk as well as in a boulder gym , I always have tight schedule of work. Dubai lifestyle crammed my days into work and home luckily with weekly outdoor exposure. Being a climbing aficionado mainly on Boulders and Sport Crags, often on Myanmar & India Himalaya ranges, my holidays used to be super budget trips. I even though myself an ANTI-EVEREST person who is trying to avoid all these Wallet Crying Adventures, like Everest or Kilimanjaro and stuffs.

But HEY, LIFE is full of Surprise.  In late 2015, my homie from Myanmar send me a short message, “ Are you joining with me…………….. to EVERST ?    I thought he was fooling me around , so my quick reply was, “HELL YEAH” , and after covering the whole story in a few chat,  it came to realization that this sh*t gonna happen for sure.    And everything will be FULLY SPONSORED.  Climbing Expedition, of course organized by guiding company, expected crowd at EBC as well as long queue on the most frequent climbed southeast ridge route. But I am born-ready for climbing whether in Rock republic or Jebel Jais or even Everest. And reaching the 8848-metre summit of Everest maybe the most prized goal in the world of mountaineering; however we seek the First Apline routes in Myanmar in the past, this time is challenging too as no Myanmar national has tasted that glory. And we could be the first.

 

Long story short, my climbing buddies, Pyae Phyo & WinKo did one of Myanmar’s Highest  Mt.Gamlang Razi Alpine Frist Ascent in 2013. The same sponsoring company sponsoring a crew to Everest in 2014, unfortunately, Myanmar First Everest team were luckily escaped from EVEREST WORST disaster which killed 16 Nepalese Sherpas during the tragic avalanche on Khumbu Icefall western spur.

This time 2016, Myanmar EVEREST Team will be REFORMED, with Pyae, Win and one more, and the one additional lucky guy was me, who work in Dubai as a boulderer. It make me realize that my 11 year continuous craziness on mountains and NOLS Himalaya Mountaineering experiences are starting to pay off .

Myanmar Everest Team reformed with three climbers WinKoKo, PyaePhyoAung and myself (NyiNyiAung) whom representing TCCM ( Technical Climbing Club of Myanmar) sponsored by HTOO group of companies ,HTOO FOUNDATION,AGD BANK,YAG(Yangon Airport Group),Htoo Housing and Property Development,*Asian Wings Airways and with many other support from our friends and Families.

Most importantly my company GLOBAL CLIMBING, with generous support from Pete, who give me such long Leave for 3 months , also Vanda and all colleagues who are willing to share my workload during my climb.

Three of us flew to Kathmandu in January as a preparation to meet cordial hosts from Nepal, Sumit Joshi and team from Himalayan Ascent who gonna help us from base – to – the top of the world.

We officially started Myanmar Everest Expedition from Yangon International Airport on 26-March.   The uncertainties of an expedition started from LUKLA flight for Everest trip . We spend 2 days in small airport and flights are kept canceling due to bad weather. However, we were not very disappointed because we can catch up hipsters in the town at International Tattoo Convention happening the same time.

 

 

We then landed to Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary airport runways and start our hike to base camp. Hiking from Lukla to EBC is stunning. From Base Camp and beyond are also terrifically & beautifully surrounded.  We all brought our National Flag to Hoist on the Summit of Everest, as well as sponsoring company’s flags.

 

I brought a UAE flag that I got from MOE Home Centre gave-away during UAE National Day and one BUFF-UAE flag bandana too. I intended to bring UAE flags to show my gratitude to UAE where I currently work and grow.

From the gear shops in Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp, we make many new friends including UAE Armed Forces Everest Expedition Team members, Paul, Gerald, and also our Emirati friends Saeed, Nasser, Abdul and many more. We took selfies together and stand aside for high Fives on the sketchy Khumbu Icefall.   UAE team is acclimatizing at Lobuche East while we are doing rotations of acclimatization on Khumbu Ice Fall many times.

On our third rotation to High Camp, Camp 3 at 6800, my body starts to wear and tear. 4th of May 2016, during our early morning start from Everest Camp 2 -6400m my heart pounding up to 180 bmp and my fingers and toes starting to freeze near the Crampon point before climbing up on Lhotse face. I tried to continue but finally I listen to the wise advice from my Sherpa Guide “Lopseng Sherpa”. Me and Lopseng decided to go back to Camp-2 and then next day descending to EBC to do the medical checks . Doctors from EVEREST.ER base camp are very helpful, checking all details including ECG and scans to find out whether it is HAPE or AMS ( Acute Mountain Sickness), but all is clear apart from Scary High Heart Rate, which still maintain 120bpm at Base Camp.

It is not very easy to make decision “NOT to continue the CLIMB”. But there are many factors which make me to decide not only for my personal safety and health, mainly to MEET the GOAL of our TEAM to raise the Myanmar Flag on Everest Summit.     Our summit team consists of 3 Climbers ( Pyae, Win and myself ) accompanied by 4 Sherpa guides, total of 7.  Since I dropped out from the summit push, two of my partners will have 2 Sherpa each. This is going to become 1 Climber: 2 Guide ratios which sound a lot safer and make me to believe to have butter Summit Success Rate. I decided to gamble with this overcrowded queue. This mountain was closed for 2 years, 2014 Avalanche Disaster & 2015 Earthquake.  @ Continuous off –climbing seasons lined up pending approved permits.    18 MAY and 19 MAY are going to be packed with people as these days are marked as best weather window days.

I made a decision to stepping back myself and equip all we have to two of Myanmar climbers with Sherpas and Oxygens to make our ONE AIM of Putting the National Flag on top of the world.  Two of my friends had a hard time to leave me at the base, but finally they accepted my suggestions. Fortunately, I am still fit to wait at the Base Camp; I don’t have to fly to Kathmandu for medication. Everest Base Camp doctors approved my stay at our Himalayan Ascent base camp, later where I spend most of my days and nights in the Communication Tent contacting my teammates through Radio and Sat Phones.

Two of my friends Pyae & Win are continuing the climb for the summit push on coming 15 May 2016. I had made my best support to my team from EBC throughout their climb, but the key is perseverance and Strength of both mind and body of my teammates , Pyae & Win is the only factor to made to the top.

On 19 May 2016, the new History was made.

The two mountaineers, Pyae Phyo Aung and Win Ko Ko, planted Myanmar flag on Everest’s peak after climbing overnight to reach to the top of the World, 8850 meters on 19 May , 7am while I am at the Base Camp near Puja Stone listening on the Walkie Talkie.

“We reached the top at 7:07 this morning,”

I jumped ,with trambing fingers and tearing at the same time. Folks from the Himalayan Ascent Base Camp, Sumit, Deepak and all crews come and shake my hand for the first ascent of Myanmar on Everest.    We all know  Summit is just only the HALFWAY, their safe descent is key to complete the climb. Waiting at EBC for my teammates descent is quite as terrifying as the ascent too. Base Camp staffs burnt the same amount of Juniper Leaves and scattering rice seeds toward the mountain for the blessing of Sagarmatha and good auspicious of safe climb and smooth descend.

 

On 21 May, I climbed beyond the Crampon Point on Khumbu Icefall to welcome two of my friends, Pyae and Win. Pyae Phyo Aung , my same batch last bencher homie since 2003 Physics class, looks strong with many mild burn on his face. Pyae sunglasses screwed with oxygen mask and he often lift the google up to defrost the mask, he had mild snow blind and his eyes are sore. We made a hug like we haven’t seen for 13 years. An hour later Win Ko Ko, my classmate from GIS class 2010, also a veteran climber & NOLS graduate came down the ice fall with smiling face, he had a Terrible Burn with Pitch Black skin on  cheeks and nose tips. For myself I am maintaining at the Everest base camp due to my health condition.

Apart from these, First Myanmar Everest Ascent is very SUCCESSFUL with neither fatility nor  severe injury, 3 out of 2 climbers made to the summit of Everest for the first time in year of 2016. This success also coincides with the new Democracy Government ruling the country after escaping Military Junta for 2 decades.  This year 2016 season confirmed with 6 fatality and many frost bites because of the long queue on summit days. Their souls are with the mountain, we will contemplate their memorial stones next trip with our condolences. There are several rescues happened during the climb too. Oddly, there is one fake summit-claim by Indian couple, who were now banned to Nepal peaks. And as usual so many things of badge seekers deals happening during the reopen of Everest 2016 season this year. We are glad we made it thought cleanest as we can, enduring all these shenanigans of the commercial climbing on Everest.

Although I have not made it to the top, I am very satisfied by the climb, “it’s not only the Summit which made up the mountain, but also its faces. I do enjoy every moment while I climb. Climbing on ladders or on the snow, crossing on the aluminum ladders of Khumbu Icefall or jumping over pitch crevasses, hearing the avalanches from nearby Nuptse Face or West Shoulder are all counted. I have taken part of the history of Myanmar’s First Everest ascent while I’m working in the Desert Sand Pit.

Our half body life-size statues are now in Myanmar Sport Museum of (Ministry of Health & Sport ) along with many other International 4 Gold Medalist Athletes.

We honestly didn’t expect that, but this time, my Desert to Everest trip mark something historic and pretty epic.  Thanks to UAE deserts and mountains for giving me contrast life from Nepal Mountains, but I will always be grateful for what I got while working in UAE, the city and colleagues.

I still keep my Myanmar National Flag and also UAE National flag in my backpack-brain hopeful to make a bridge in future climbs for a better sporty friendship between this two beautiful nations.

 

THE END

 

Sherpa Team & Myanmar Everest Climbers (L to R – NjimaTenzingSherpa, myself(NyiNyi) , PasangGaljenSherpa, WinKoKo, UrkenSherpa, PyaePhyoAung, LopsengSherpa at “Himalayan Ascent Camp” Everest basecamp )

 

Posted in Autobiography, Climbing, Essay, Everest, History, Mountaineering, Nepal, Publication, Trip Report | Leave a comment

Pictorial History of 20th Anniversary Hkakabo Razi (Ozaki Expeditions) 

 

Twenty year ago today, Ozaki & Nyima Gyaltsen made the very first and historic ascent of  Mt Hkakabo Razi (5881 m).

Those were the days Myanmar is known for legendary inaccessible land back in 1990s.

Ozaki made his way to conquer this magical mountain of Northernmost Myanmar NOT very easily. He have tried since 1993, his application took 2 years for the approval.

In 1995 , “OZAKI FAMILY EXPEDITION” which consists of ten members ( including his wife, Frederique and their two children – Makoto (10 y/o ) & Sarah (7 y/o ) became first foreigners to step into Hkakaborazi national park area again after more than 58 years by botanist Kindom Ward (the first British Botanical Expedition led by Kingdom Ward during the colonial era in 1937 ). Ozaki Family Expedition 1995  wasn’t a successful expedition but importantly , all climbing crew come back down safely after they climbed up to 5100m , C2, many difficulties like falling seracs cut down the fixed ropes and the upper glaciers formed new dimesion crevasses due to rapid changes of avalanches etc. But it was a very succssful first attempt which contribute Ozaki’s successful summit bit in 1996.

In  1996 September 15 (3:12 pm ) Ozaki & Nama Gwaltsen successfully climbed the summit of Mt Hkakabo Razi, roof of Southeast Asia & Myanmar Highest Summit.

Ozaki, at that time already climbed 8 of the 14 EightThousanders including Everest North face first ascent 1980 &  Everest Winter ascent 1983 .The veteran Mountaineer & Climber Ozaki’s commented on Mt. Hkakabo Razi that – “It was a very mysterious mountain,”.

 “We are always looking for the more difficult climb — this is the spirit of alpinism,” he said in an interview in Yangon after the climb. “But we had to fight the weather constantly. I can say absolutely that Hkakabo Razi is one of the most difficult and dangerous mountains in the world. I was never scared before, like this time — I wanted to always run away from this mountain.”      (quote-Steph Article )

 

Following are the images of Hkakabo Razi expedition 20 year ago and some images are even more than 21 years form Ozaki family  expedition. I would like to thank Mrs. Frederique Gely-Ozaki & family for letting historic images appears in this blog. Also thanks to MHMF ( Myanmar Hiking & Mountaineering Federation ) images archives from Ko Thet Tun, Ko Kyaw Aye & MHMF members.

Long story short, this is my conclusion of this article. Images can explain better than me about the 1995 & 1996 Hkakabo Razi expedition.

Enjoy,

Doelone 15-Sep-2016

( This article is dedicated to 20th Anniversary of Hkakabo First Ascent , the legendary climber Takashi Ozaki (Japan, 1951- May 14, 2011) & Nyima Gyaltsen (aka “Aung Tse”) and all expedition members. )

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Ozaki & Nyima Gyaltsen posing with Myanmar , Japen & France national flags at the summit of Mt,KKBo (5881 m) 3:12 pm 1996 September 15 (i would like to credit the photo to Takashi Ozaki ) Photo Courtesy Ozaki Family : Special Thanks to Fredrique Gley Ozaki

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Ang Tse crossing exposed crevasses 1996

 

 

 

SUMMIT IMAGES

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Ko Thet Tun (MHMF) climbing on Vertical Ice on fixed line 1996

 

Summit Ridge and Glacier Climbs 

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Ozaki & Dwight (Major Kai Khan Moong)  & Ang Tse welcomed by Dr. Paing Soe at the base camp after their dangerous and majestic climb during narrow weather window.

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(FROM Left to Right >> U Soe Moe, Dr. Paing Soe (President of MHMF) & major Kai Kham Moong /Dwight ( liaison ) & U Thet Tun at base camp (MHMF Federations’ core crew who played vital role for Ozaki’s expedition )

 

 Welcoming back the Summit Team at Base Camp

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Base Camp Views 

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View of Hkakabo Razi, the Mystical Mountain

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Spirit of Alpine Climbing

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Hkakabo Razi base camp, Makoto (10 y/o ) & Sarah (7 y/o ) during Ozaki family expedition 1995, AMAZING CHILDHOOD 

 

 

Ozaki Family expedition 1995

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Family Photo of Ozaki, Makoto, Sarah & Frederique 1995.  ( Photo Courtesy – Frederique Gely Ozaki) 

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River crossing at it’s best circa 1995

 

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Mako & a Monk ( Circa 1995 )

 

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Porters of Hkakaborazi expedition 

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Suspension bridges made out of rattan & bamboos ( without the use of any metals ) 

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base camp style , circa 1995

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Ozaki & Taron families , Taron are known as Myanmar Pygmies ( now the population of Taron is only 3 (yes 3 person) remain in Northern Myanmar’s remote village.)

Publications of Hkakabo

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1996 Expedition Ozaki & MHMF memberswith Rawang, Lisu & Tibetan mountain tribe brothers & sisters 

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Ang Tse (aka) Nyima Gylstein crusing up the ridge, 1996

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From Left to Right , MHMF flag, Myanmar National flag, Ko Thet Tun, Major Kai Kham Moong/Dwight and Ko Soe Moe at base camp

 

 

 

 

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Ozaki , the legend, ( 1951-2011)

Posted in History, Hkakaborazi, Memorial, Mountaineering, Photography | Leave a comment

ဒဏ္ရာကင္းကင္းBouldering

thecube2014

Harold Bruce-Lee sending V4 in RAK-VEGAS

Bouldering ကအႏၲရာယ္ရွိတဲ့အားကစားပါ။

Bouldering နည္းစနစ္ေတြကြၽမ္းက်င္တိုးတက္ဖို႕ ေလ့က်င့္တဲ့ ကာလေတြမွာ အနာတရမျဖစ္ဖို႕၊ ဒဏ္ရာမရဖို႕ အေရးၾကီးပါတယ္။

ဒဏ္ရာမရ၊အထိအခိုက္မရွိေအာင္ Boulderingအားကစား ကို ဘယ္လိုေလ့က်င့္မလဲ။

ဒါနဲ႕ပက္သက္လို႕ အေရးၾကီးတဲ့အခ်က္တစ္ခ်ိဳ႕ကို ေရးျပပါရေစ။

 

(၁) အေက်ာ့ေလွ်ာ့ ပါ။  Boulderingပဲလုပ္လုပ္ climbingပဲလုပ္လုပ္ အေက်ာ့အရင္ေလွ်ာ့ျပီးမွလုပ္ပါ။ အျမဲတမ္း မျဖစ္မေနလုပ္ရမဲ့အလုပ္ပါ။ အေပၚပိုင္းအေနနဲ႕ လက္ေခ်ာင္းေတြ၊ လက္ေမာင္း လက္ဖ်ံနဲ႕ ဆံု။ ျပီးတဲ့အခါ ခါးနဲ႕ ေနာက္ေက်ာ။ ေအာက္ပိုင္းအေနနဲ႕ ေပါင္ ေျခသလုံး နဲ႕ ေျခခ်င္းဝတ္ အေက်ာေတြကို ေလွ်ာ့ေပးဖို႕လိုပါတယ္။ static stretching ေခၚတဲ့ ၁၀စကၠန့္ကေန စကၠန့္၃၀ေလာက္အေက်ာေလွ်ာ့တဲ့ နည္းျဖစ္ေစ ခုေနာက္ပိုင္း youtubeမွာအလြယ္တကူေတြ႕ႏိုင္တဲ့ Dynamic stretchingေခၚတဲ့ အလႈပ္ နည္းျဖစ္ေစ ကိုယ္အားသန္ရာနည္းနဲ႕ အေက်ာေလွ်ာ့ေပးပါ၊ တကယ္အေက်ာေလွ်ာ့ ဖို႕လိုပါတယ္။ ဒီလိုေလွ်ာ့ျပီးBouldering လုပ္ တဲ့ရက္ေတြမွာ တက္ရတာပိုညက္ညက္ေညာေညာရွိေနမွာပါ၊

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(၂) ေသြးပူေလ့က်င့္ခန္းလုပ္ပါ ။ အေက်ာ့ေလွ်ာ့ေနစဥ္အတြင္းမွာ အလိုလိုေသြးနည္းနည္းပူလာေနပါျပီ။ ဒါေပမဲ့ အားကစားလႈပ္ရွားဖို႕အတြက္ ႏွလုံးကိုလိုအပ္တဲ့ေသြးလည္ပတ္မႈ ေျဖးေျဖးနဲ႕မွန္မွန္ေရာက္ေစဖို႕ အေၾကာေလွ်ာ့ျပီး တန္း “တက္” တာမ်ိဳးမလုပ္ေသးပဲ ေသြးပူေလ့က်င့္ခန္းေလးကို ၾကားထဲမွာထည့္ျပီးလုပ္တာ အလြန္ကိုတာသြားပါတယ္။ ဒိုက္ထိုးတာ၊ plankလုပ္တာ jumping jacksလုပ္တာ wall sit ဘားတန္းခို” စတာေတြကို ၃မိနစ္ကေန ၅မိနစ္ေလာက္ အခ်ိန္ေပး လုပ္ပါ။ အဲ့ဒီ ေသြးပူေလ့က်င့္ခန္းအျပီးမွာေတာ့ ကြၽန္ေတာ္တို႕ရဲ့ ခႏၲာကိုယ္ဟာ ေသြးလည္ပတ္မႉ ေကာင္းလာပါျပီ ။ heart rate လည္း ေႏွးရာကေန တိုးလာသလို body temperature လည္းတက္လာပါျပီ။ ေသြးပူေလ့က်င့္ခန္းအပိုင္းထဲမွာ ခုနက ကရိယာလြတ္ေသြးပူအျပင္ climbing wall ေပၚမွာစျပီးတက္တဲ့ ေသြးပူ ဟာလည္းအက်ဳံးဝင္ပါတယ္။ climbing holdၾကီးၾကီး ေတြကိုစကိုင္ပါ။ လြယ္တဲ့ move ေတြကို စလႈပ္ရွားျပီး အသက္႐ႉမွန္မွန္နဲ႕ ေျဖးေျဖးနဲ႕ စျပီး Bouldering လုပ္ရင္း Warm up လုပ္ႏိုင္ပါတယ္။ အၾကိဳက္ဆုံး climbing Warm up ကေတာ့ traverse ပါ Bouldering move ေတြကို ေဘးတိုက္သြားတာကိုဆိုလိုပါတယ္။ ေဘးတိုက္အသြားအျပန္ ေခါက္တံု႕ေခါက္ျပန္လုပ္ ေသြးပူေလ့က်င့္ခန္းစရင္း ကိုယ္ေလ့က်င့္မဲ့ Bouldering project ေတြကိုတက္ဖို႕ နဲ႕ traverse အစပ်ိဳးႏိုင္ပါတယ္) ။ အေရးၾကီးတာက ေသြးပူေလ့က်င့္ရာမွာ climbing hold ေသးေသးေတြကိုအတတ္ႏိုင္ဆုံးေရွာင္ျပီး holdၾကီးၾကီး နဲ႕ လြယ္လြယ္ move ေတြနဲ႕ စဖို႕ပါ။ (V0 V1 ထက္မေက်ာ္သင့္ပါဘူး)

(၃) ကိုယ့္ Bouldering level ကို သိပါေစ။ စတက္ကာစ အသစ္ေတြအေနနဲ႕ V0 တို႕ V1 တို႕က move ေတြကိုတက္ေလ့ရွိပါတယ္။ တစ္ခ်ိဳ႕သန္တဲ့သူေတြဟာ V2 V3 ေလာက္ကိုပါ တက္ႏိုင္တာမ်ိဳးလည္းရွိပါတယ္။ အဲ့ဒီလိုအေျခအေနေတြမွာ ကိုယ့္ရဲ့ Bouldering level ကိုမွန္မွန္ကန္ကန္အကဲျဖတ္တတ္ဖို႕လိုလာပါျပီ။ စျပီး Bouldering လုပ္ခါစမွာ လြယ္တဲ့ Boulder problem ေတြကေနသာစဖို႕ လိုပါတယ္။ ဒါေပမဲ့ တက္ႏိုင္တာပဲဆိုျပီး ခက္တဲ့ V3 သို႕မဟုတ္ V4 က လက္တဖ်ားစာ crimp ေသးေသးေလးေတြ pocket ေသးေသးေလးေတြ ၊ လက္ေခ်ာင္းတစ္ေခ်ာင္းထဲနဲ႕ hold လုပ္ရတဲ့ mono လို move ေတြ ပါတဲ့ အခက္ V4 ေတြကို ေျခႏုကာလမွာ တက္တဲ့အခါ ဒဏ္ရာရႏိုင္ပါတယ္။ ခုန္တဲ့ပ်ံတဲ့ movement ေတြပါတဲ့ Dyno လိုမ်ိဳးမွာလည္း ထိခိုက္အနာတရျဖစ္ေလ့ရွိပါတယ္။ ဒီေတာ့ ကိုယ့္ရဲ့ level ကေန သိပ္အလွမ္းေဝးတဲ့ အဆင့္တစ္ခုကို ရုတ္ခ်ည္းခုန္မတက္ဖို႕ အေရးၾကီးပါတယ္။ (ဥမမာအားျဖင့္ V2 တက္ေနရာက V6 ေလာက္ကိုတစ္ခါတည္းမသြားမိဖို႕သာ ဆိုလိုရင္းပါ) ။ Bouldering ရဲ့အႏွစ္သာရက ကိုယ့္ရဲ့ limit ေတြကို ေက်ာ္လြန္ျပီး တက္ႏိုင္ေအာင္ ေလ့က်င့္ပ်ိဳးေထာင္ယူရတဲ့ စိတ္+နည္းစနစ္+ကိုယ္ခႏၲာၾကံ့ခိုင္မႈ ၃မ်ိဳးစလုံးအေရးၾကီးတဲ့ အားကစားဆိုတာသတိခ်ပ္ေစလိုပါတယ္ ကိုယ့္ရဲ့ limit ေတြကိုစမ္းသပ္အကဲျဖတ္ဖို႕ ဒီလိုခက္တဲ့ crimp ေသးေသး holdေသးေသးေတြ ၾကီးေပမဲ့ကိုင္ရခက္တဲ့sloper လိုမ်ိဳးေတြ ကိုတက္ၾကည့္ျပီး ကိုယ့္ကိုယ္ကို သန္မာလာေအာင္ေလ့က်င့္ရမွာပါ။youtube videoေတြၾကည့္ျပီး စိတ္အားအထက္သန္လြန္ျပီး အဲ့ဒီအထဲကလို လက္ေခ်ာင္းတစ္ေခ်ာင္းတည္း နဲ႕ pull up လုပ္ပစ္လိုက္လို႕ လက္ေခ်ာင္းရဲ့ အရြတ္ေတြစုတ္ျပဲသြားရင္ မတန္ပါဘူး။ ဒါေၾကာင့္မို႕ ကိုယ့္Bouldering level ကိုကိုယ္တိုင္ကိုယ္က်ေရာ အတူတက္ေဖာ္သူငယ္ခ်င္းေတြအကူအညီနဲ႕ပါ ဆန္းစစ္ျပီး အဆင့္မေက်ာ္ပဲ ေလ့က်င့္ပ်ိဳးေထာင္ဖို႕လိုပါတယ္။

(၄) အက်ေကာင္းဖို႕ ေလ့က်င့္ပါ။ Bouldering မွာ အတက္ကြၽမ္းက်င္ဖို႕ ေလ့က်င့္ရသလို အက်ေတာ္ဖို႕လည္းအေရးၾကီးပါတယ္။ တက္တဲ့အခါတိုင္းမွာ ေအာက္ကိုျပန္က်မဲ့ အေနအထားေတြကို ေလ့လာပါ။ Bouldering မွာ အထိအခိုက္မ်ားတာ လက္ေခ်ာင္းအရြတ္ေတြ တံေတာင္နဲ႕ လက္ေမာင္ဆံုေတြ၊ လက္ဖ်ံႂကြက္သားေတြတင္မဟုတ္ပါဘူး၊ ေျခေထာက္အ႐ိုးအက္တာ၊ တင္ပါးဆံု႐ိုးက်ိဳးတာ၊ ေနာက္ေစ့နဲ႕ ေက်ာဒဏ္ရာ လက္ေကာက္ဝတ္က်ိဳးတာ၊ တံေတာင္ဆစ္လြဲတာစတာေတြဟာ ျပန္ျပဳတ္အက်မွာ အျဖစ္မ်ားတဲ့ ထိခိုက္မႈေတြပါ။ ဒီလိုမျဖစ္ေအာင္ မတက္ခင္ ေအာက္က crash pad ရဲ့ အေနအထား က်တဲ့ပံုစံေတြအေရးၾကီးပါတယ္၊ ကိုယ္တက္ေနတုံး ေအာက္ကတစ္ေယာက္ေယာက္ကျဖတ္သြားတာ ဝင္လာတာမ်ိဳးေတြကလည္း ႏွစ္ေယာက္လုံးဖို႕ အႏၲရာယ္ရွိပါတယ္။ တက္ေနစဥ္မွာ spotter ရွိတာ ေကာင္းပါတယ္။crash padကို အလိုက္သင့္ေရႊ႕ေဖးဖို႕ လူတစ္ေယာက္သို႕မဟုတ္ spot လုပ္ေပးသူ မရွိတဲ့အခါမ်ိဳးမွာ crash pad အပိုတစ္ခုအနည္းဆုံးခံထားမွစိတ္ခ်ရမွာပါ။ ဒါ့အျပင္ crash pad /ေဖာ့တုံးေတြက Bouldering အတြက္အေရးၾကီးတဲ့ေအာက္ခံေတြျဖစ္ေပမဲ့လို႕ climber အက်ေကာင္းမွသာ crash pad ကကယ္ႏိုင္မွာျဖစ္ပါတယ္။

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(၅) ဟန္ခ်က္ ညီဖို႕ ျပင္ဆင္ပါ။ ဟန္ခ်က္/Balance ေကာင္းရင္ Bouldering အတြက္အေထာက္အကူျပဳပါတယ္။ ဒီေနရာမွာက ကိုယ္ခႏၲာဟန္ခ်က္အျပင္ ေလ့က်င့္ခန္းဟန္ခ်က္ အစားအေသာက္အအိပ္အေန ဟန္ခ်က္ေတြပါပါတယ္။
ကိုယ္ခႏၲာဟန္ခ်က္ေကာင္းလာဖို႕ slack line ေလွ်ာက္တာတို႕ yoga ေလ့က်င့္ခန္းတို႕ စတာေတြက တကယ္အက်ိဳးရွိပါတယ္။ ေလ့က်င့္ခန္းဟန္ခ်က္အေနနဲ႕ကေတာ့ climbing လုပ္ေနစဥ္အတြင္းအသုံးျပဳထားတဲ့ ႂကြက္သားေတြ အေက်ာေတြ အျပင္ (climbing လုပ္တဲ့အခါမသုံးျဖစ္ မညွစ္ထုတ္ျဖစ္ခဲ့တဲ့)အျခားေသာ ႂကြက္သားေတြလည္း ဟန္ခ်က္ညီညီ ဖြံ႕ျဖိဳးဖို႕လုပ္ရမွာပါ။ ဒါေတြကို Bouldering /climbing session ရဲ့အျပီး Warm down လုပ္ရင္းနဲ႕ ဒိုက္ထိုးတာ ab ေတြ ဗိုက္သားအတြက္ ဘယ္လီ႐ိုက္တာ စတာေတြကို ျဖည့္ေပးဖို႕လိုပါတယ္။Bouldering လုပ္ျပီးျပီးခ်င္းျပိဳင္းသြားရင္ေတာ့ အဲ့ဒီတစ္ေန႕စာအတြက္ရပ္ထားလိုက္ျပီး ေနာက္ေန႕ နားရက္မွာ ဒိုက္ထိုးတာ၊ plankလုပ္တာ ဘားတန္းခို တာေတြကိုျပန္လုပ္ရပါမယ္။အစားအေသာက္အအိပ္အေန ဟန္ခ်က္ကလည္း အားကစားလုပ္သူတိုင္းအတြက္အေရးၾကီးပါတယ္ ။ climbingလုပ္တဲ့သူေတြဖို႕ climbing session တက္ေနတုံးအခ်ိန္ေတြနဲ႕ ေလ့က်င့္ျပီးတိုင္းမွာ hydrate ျဖစ္ေနဖို႕လိုပါတယ္၊ protein လည္းလိုပါတယ္၊ bar ၁ခုေလာက္ေဆာင္ထားျပီး session အျပီးမွာစားတာကအေထာက္အကူျပဳပါတယ္၊ ကြၽန္ေတာ္ကေတာ့ ငွက္ေပ်ာ္သီး၊ ေခ်ာကလက္စတာေတြစားေလ့ရွိပါတယ္။ အိပ္ေရးပ်က္ထားရင္ Bouldering training သြားလုပ္မဲ့အစားနားလိုက္တာက အက်ိဳးရွိမွာပါ၊ တက္မယ္ ေလ့က်င့္မယ္ဆိုရင္ အိပ္ေရးဝထားတာ ေကာင္းပါတယ္ ။

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(၆) အလြန္အႂကြံ မေလ့က်င့္မိပါေစနဲ႕  Bouldering ေလ့က်င့္တဲ့ကာလေတြအတြင္းမွာ

  • လူသစ္တန္းအေနနဲ႕ တစ္ပါတ္ကို ပံုမွန္ ၂ရက္ကေန ၃ရက္ထက္မပိုသင့္ပါဘူး ၊ (climbing move မ်ားမ်ား hangboard ရဲ့လြယ္တဲ့ hang ေတြနဲ႕လည္းတြဲေလ့က်င့္ႏိုင္ပါျပီ campus board ကိုေတာ့လုံးဝမစသင့္ေသးပါ campus board ေပၚသြားဖို႕ လက္ေခ်ာင္းေလးေတြက လုံးဝကိုအဆင္သင့္မျဖစ္ေသးပါဘူး ) Boulderingလုပ္တာ ၃လကေန ၆လေလာက္ ပံုမွန္ရွိလာျပီးေတာ့
  • အလယ္အလတ္တန္း အဆင့္ေလာက္ ေရာက္လာျပီဆိုရင္ တပတ္ကို ၃ရက္ကေန ၄ရက္အထိေလ့က်င့္ႏိုင္ပါျပီ။ (climbing ေကာ hangboard ေကာ ၊ ခက္တဲ့ hangထဲက sloper ေတြ pocket မွာ hang တာေတြ နဲ႕လည္းတြဲေလ့က်င့္ႏိုင္ပါျပီ campus board ကိုေတာ့မစသင့္ေသးပါ campusing အတြက္ လက္ေခ်ာင္းေလးေတြက နည္းနည္းေတာ့သန္မာေနပါျပီ ဒါေပမဲ့ အဆင္သင့္မျဖစ္ေသးပါဘူး )
  • တက္သက္ ၁ႏွစ္ ၂ႏွစ္ ေက်ာ္ရွိျပီး ေတာက္ေလွ်ာက္လည္းေလ့က်င့္လာခဲ့ တယ္ဆိုရင္ေတာ့ တပတ္ကို ၅ရက္ေလာက္ထိတိုးျပီးေလ့က်င့္လို႕ရပါတယ္။ campus board ေပၚမွာ ေလ့က်င့္ဖို႕အတြက္လည္း လက္ေခ်ာင္းေတြကအရြတ္ေတြဟာ သန္မာေနပါျပီ ( ဒီလိုမွမဟုတ္ပဲ စစေလ့က်င့္ကတည္းက campusing လုပ္မယ္ဆိုရင္ အက်ိဳးမရွိႏိုင္ပါဘူး လက္ေခ်ာင္းေတြ injury ရတာပဲအဖတ္တင္ပါလိမ့္မယ္ ) campus board ေပၚသြားဖို႕ အနည္းေလး ၁ႏွစ္ေလာက္အခ်ိန္ယူတာေကာင္းပါတယ္။
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HangBoard / Fingerboard 

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Finger on Campus Rung 

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Set of Campus Rungs on a “Campus Board”

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WARNING : DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME ( your finger may get seriously injured )

 

နံပါတ္ ၇ ကေတာ့ အေရးၾကီးတဲ့အခ်က္ပါ
(၇) မလိုအပ္ပဲ အားမသုံးပါနဲ႕   Bouldering မွာ အားေတြအသကုန္ထုတ္ျပီးတက္တာထက္ စနစ္က်တဲ့Move ေတြ သုံးတာ ၊ ကြၽမ္းက်င္အကြက္ေတြသုံးတာက ပိုထိေရာက္ပါတယ္ ( ဒါအတြက္ကေတာ့climbing video ေတြ မ်ားမ်ားၾကည့္တာတို႕ ကိုယ့္ seniorေတြထံက move ေတြကို ေမးျမန္းေလ့က်င့္တာတို႕ကေန တိုးတက္ေအာင္ေလ့က်င့္ယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္ ) ေနာက္ျပီးေတာ့ route တစ္ခု boulder problem တစ္ခု လြယ္သည္ျဖစ္ေစခက္သည္ျဖစ္ေစ holdေတြဘယ္မွာဆိုတာမတက္ခင္ ၾကိဳတင္ၾကည့္႐ႈထားတာ (တက္ဖူးတဲ့သူဆီက beta ကို ေမးတာမ်ိဳး) ဘက္လက္ျပီးညာလက္ေရႊ႕မယ္စသည္ျဖင့္ အကြက္အစီအစဥ္(sequence)ကိုလည္းမတက္ခင္ၾကိဳျပီး တြက္ဆျပင္ဆင္တားတာဟာတကယ္ေကာင္းတဲ့အေလ့အထပါ။ အင္အားကိုေခြၽတာႏိုင္ပါတယ္။ တက္ေန႕တဲ့ route ေပၚေရာက္မွ ေျခေထာက္ထားဖို႕ foothold ကိုလိုက္ရွာတာမ်ိဳးဟာ အခ်ိန္ကုန္လူပန္းေစတဲ့ တက္နည္းပါပဲ။ ဒီေတာ့မလိုအပ္ပဲ အားမသုံးမိေအာင္ beta ေတြ sequenceေတြနဲ႕ route မွာပါဝင္တဲ့ hold ေတြကိုၾကိဳတင္ၾကည့္႐ႈျပီးမွတက္တာက သိပ္ကိုအေထာက္အကူျပဳပါလိမ့္မယ္။ အားသုံးစရာမလိုပဲ skill သုံးျပီးတက္ဖို႕ပါ။ (ခရီးမသြားခင္ ေျမပံုၾကည့္တာမ်ိဳး၊လမ္းနာမည္ေတြကို အရင္ၾကည့္ျပီးမွသြားတာမ်ိဳးပါ၊ ေရာက္ရာေပါက္ရာေမာင္းသြားတာထက္ ေျမပံုနဲ႕တည္ေနရာကိုေလ့လာျပီးမွသြားတာက ပိုခရီးတြင္တဲ့ သေဘာပါ။ )

(၈) ေျခကုပ္ျမဲပါေစ။   တက္တဲ့အခါ အေပၚပိုင္းႂကြက္သားေတြခ်ည္းအားသုံးတက္တာထက္ ေျခေထာက္ကိုသုံးပါ။ Bouldering မွာ footwork ကိုေကာင္းေကာင္းပိုင္ႏိုင္ျပီဆိုရင္ တဟုန္ထိုးတိုးတက္ဖို႕အလားအလာရွိတဲ့အျပင္ injury နည္းေအာင္လည္းအေထာက္အကူျပဳပါတယ္၊ footworkရဲ့အေရးၾကီးတဲ့အပိုင္းေတြျဖစ္တဲ့ smearing ရယ္ edging ရယ္ကိုတိုးတက္ဖို႕ေလ့က်င့္ရပါတယ္။ ဒါ့အျပင္ heel hook နဲ႕ toe hook ေတြကိုလည္းေလ့လာျပီး တက္တဲ့အခါ လက္ေတြ႕အသုံးခ်ၾကည့္ဖို႕လိုပါတယ္

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Edging 

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Smearing

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Toe Hook

 

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heelhook

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  • (smearing ဆိုတာကေတာ့ ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္ဦးက ရာဘာနဲ႕အျပားလိုက္နံရံကိုဖိကပ္ျပီး ပြတ္တိုက္မႈကေန ေျခကုပ္ယူတာကိုဆိုလိုပါတယ္
  • edgingကေတာ့ ေတာင္နံရံအစြန္း/holdရဲ့အစြန္းအဖ်ားေလးေပၚ ဖိနပ္ရဲ့အစြန္နဲ႕ဖိနင္းျပီး ေျခကုပ္ယူတာကိုဆိုလိုပါတယ္ ၊
  • heel hook နဲ႕ toe hook က ဖေနာင့္နဲ႕ေျခဦးပိုင္းနဲ႕ footholdကိုခ်ိတ္ျပီး ေျခကုပ္ယူတာကိုဆိုလိုပါတယ္

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(၉) တသမတ္ထဲ မေလ့က်င့္ပါနဲ႕။ ကိုယ့္လက္ေခ်ာင္းေလးေတြ ကိုင္တြယ္တဲ့ climbing hold ပံုစံေတြဟာ အတူတူပဲလားဆိုတာကိုေလ့လာပါ၊ အကုန္ဆင္တူဆိုရင္ အတူညီတဲ့ hold ေတြကိုသုံးဖို႕လိုပါတယ္၊ ဒါမွ climbing styles အမ်ိဳးမ်ိဳးကိုေလ့က်င့္ႏိုင္မွာပါ။ အထူးသျဖင့္ ကိုယ္သုံးတဲ့ hold ေတြမွာ pocket အရမ္းမ်ားေနသလား၊ ဒါဆို အရြတ္ထိဖို႕ အလားအလာမ်ားေနပါျပီ၊ ဒါေၾကာင့္ jugs ေတြ sloper ေတြpinch ေတြ စတဲ့ လက္ပံုစံ တစ္သမတ္ထဲမဟုတ္ပံု လက္ေခ်ာင္းေတြကိုေျပာင္းလဲကိုင္တြယ္ရတဲ့ hold ေတြ route ေတြမွာေလ့က်င့္ေပးရပါမယ္။ ဒါမွ အခ်ိဳးညီတိုးတက္မွာျဖစ္သလို ဒဏ္ျဖစ္ဖို႕လည္းအလားအလာနည္းသြားမွာပါ။ route တခုတည္း projectတခုတည္း ကို နာရီဝက္ထက္ကိုျပီး မေလ့က်င့္သင့္ပါဘူး။ ပံုစံေျပာင္းျပီးေလ့က်င့္ေပးဖို႕ကသိပ္ကိုအေရးၾကီးပါတယ္။

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Sloper

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Undercling

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Pocket

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Gaston Move

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Pinch

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Harold crushing on V5

(၁၀) ေကာင္းေကာင္းအနားယူပါ တက္ေနစဥ္အတြင္းမွာ အနားယူပါ။ route တခုတက္ျပီးတိုင္း လက္ေခ်ာင္းေတြကို စကၠန့္၃၀ကေန ၁မိနစ္ေလာက္အနားေပး၊လိုအပ္ရင္ဒီထက္ကိုအနားယူျပီးမွ ျပန္တက္ပါ၊ လက္ေခ်ာင္းေတြကို အလြန္အကြၽံမသုံးမိဖို႕လိုပါတယ္။ ေနာက္ေန႕ေတြမွာလည္း ေကာင္းေကာင္းနားဖို႕လိုပါတယ္၊ လက္ေခ်ာင္းက အရြတ္ေတြ လက္ေမာင္းလက္ဖ်ံႂကြက္သြားေတြ ပိုသန္လာေအာင္ ဇီဝရုပ္ျဖစ္စဥ္ကတည္ေဆာက္ယူဖို႕အတြက္ ေလ့က်င့္ခ်ိန္မွာေလ့က်င့္ခဲ့သလိုပဲ rest dayမွာလည္း ေကာင္းေကာင္းအနားယူမွသာ ပိုမိုသန္စြမ္းလာမွာပါ။ နားတဲ့ရက္ေတြမွာ ကိုအျပင္မွာသြားတက္ခ်င္တဲ့ ေနရာေတြရဲ့အေၾကာင္းေလ့လာတာ၊ climbing video ေတြၾကည့္တာ lesson ေတြၾကည့္တာမ်ိဳး စာအုပ္ဖတ္တာမ်ိဳးေတြနဲ႕ ေကာင္းေကာင္း နားရက္မွာ ဇိမ္ယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္။

အေပၚက အခ်က္ ၉ခ်က္ကိုျပန္ျပီး အတိုခ်ဳပ္ရရင္
Bouldering ေလ့က်င့္ရင္း ဒဏ္မျဖစ္ေအာင္ မစခင္မွာ  အေက်ာ့လွ်ာ့ျပီးျပီလား   ေသြးပူေလ့က်င့္ခန္းေလးလုပ္ျပီးျပီလားကိုအျမဲဆန္းစစ္ပါ။ မလုပ္ရေသးရင္ လုပ္ျပီးမွတက္ပါ။ အရွိန္ရလာျပီး တက္တဲ့အခါ လြယ္တကာေန စတက္။ကိုယ့္level ထိတက္ျပီး တျဖည္းျဖည္းခ်င္းခက္တဲ့ route ေတြကိုတက္က်င့္ဖို႕ နဲ႕  fall အက်မွန္ဖို႕  balance ေကာင္းေကာင္းနဲ႕တက္ဖို႕။  over train မျဖစ္ဖို႕ တပတ္ကို ၂ရက္ ၃ရက္ေလာက္ကစဖို႕နဲ႕  မလိုအပ္ပဲ အားမသုံးဖို႕  footworkေသခ်ာဖို႕ styles အမ်ိဳးမ်ိဳးေျပာင္းဖို႕    တက္စဥ္နဲ႕တက္အျပီးရက္ေတြမွာ ေသခ်ာအနားယူ မယ္ဆိုရင္

ဒဏ္မျဖစ္ပဲနဲ႕ Bouldering ကို level ေတြတိုးတက္လာေအာင္ေလ့က်င့္ႏိုင္ပါျပီ၊

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Bouldering ဟာ Sport Climbing ကို အရမ္းကိုအေထာက္အကူျပဳပါတယ္။

ဒီအခ်က္အေတြအတိုင္း ေသခ်ာလိုက္နာျပီး Bouldering training လုပ္မယ္ဆိုရင္ ေပ်ာ္စရာေကာင္းျပီး မနာမက်င္တဲ့Climbing lifestyle ရလာမွာျဖစ္တဲ့အေၾကာင္း injury ျဖစ္ဖို႕အလားအလာနည္းျပီး performance ေတြ တိုးတက္လာမွာျဖစ္တဲ့အေၾကာင္း မွ်ေဝရင္း Climb On, Have Fun and Be Safe.

Nyi Nyi Aung Doelone

25-Aug-2016

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Posted in Climbing, Know_How, Rock Climbing, Tips | Leave a comment

Patan-Lalitpur ေရွးေဟာင္း “ပတန္” ျမိဳ႕ေတာ္ , နီေပါ

နီေပါ ခတၱမန္ဒူျမိဳ႕ေလးနားက လလစ္ပါး လို႕ေခၚတဲ့ျမိဳ႕ေလး
ေရွးေဟာင္း ” ပတန္ ” ျမိဳ႕ေတာ္ရာေနရာတစ္ခု living heritageတစ္ခုရဲ့ အေၾကာင္းပါ။

ဒီေဒသဟာ ဘာနဲ႕တူသလဲဆိုေတာ့ ရပ္ကြက္ႏွစ္ခုစာေလာက္ရွိတဲ့ ေရွးေဟာင္းပစၥည္း ဆိုင္ၾကီးထဲမွာ ေနထိုင္လႈပ္ရွားေနတဲ့အလားပါပဲ။ကြၽန္ေတာ္တို႕ေတြ တကူးတကလာၾကည့္ရတဲ့ ေရွးေဟာင္းေပ့ လက္ရာေကာင္းေပ့ဆိုတဲ့ ၊ဒီေရကန္၊ဒီဘုရားေက်ာင္း၊ဒီရုပ္ထုေတြ ဒီအပင္ေတြ ဒီလမ္းေတြ ဒီေရထြက္ေတြဟာ သူတို႕ရဲ့ေန႕စဥ္ဘဝရဲ့ တစ္စိတ္တစ္ေဒသျဖစ္လို႕ေနတာပါပဲ။ (ကြၽန္ေတာ္တို႕ဆီက ပုဂံ ေဒသလို ေရွးေဟာင္းပစၥည္း/ဘုရား ေက်ာင္း ေတြသပ္သပ္ လူေတြကသပ္သပ္စီျဖစ္မေနပဲ၊ ပတန္ျမိဳ႕သူျမိဳ႕သားေတြဟာ သူတို႕ေရွးေဟာင္းျမိဳ႕ထဲမွာစီးေျမာရင္း ေရွးေဟာင္းပစၥည္းအေမြအႏွစ္ေတြ (ေရထြက္/ေရကန္/ဇရပ္ စတာေတြ) ကို အရင္ဘိုးေဘးဘီဘင္လက္ထက္က အတိုင္း ယေန႕တိုင္အသုံးျပဳလ်က္ရွိပါတယ္။

  • အလုပ္သြားေတာ့မဲ့ နီေပါအမ်ိဳးသားၾကီးတစ္ေယာက္ အိမ္ထဲကေနထြက္လာတယ္- လမ္းေထာင့္က ႏွစ္ေပါင္း ၁၄၀၀ နီးပါးရွိျပီျဖစ္တဲ့ သီဝနတ္ရုပ္ကိုသူ႕နဖူးနဲ႕ထိညြတ္အရိုအေသျပဳျပီး အလုပ္ကိုဆက္သြားတယ္ ။
  •    ေက်ာင္းသြားဖို႕ ေကာင္ေလးေတြတစ္သိုက္ေဆာ့ကစားရင္းေျပးထြက္လာၾကရင္း ရာစုႏွစ္ဆယ္စုေက်ာ္ျပီျဖစ္တဲ့ ဗိသႏိုးနတ္ရုပ္ေရွ႕နားမွာ ကိုယ္စီလက္အုပ္ခ်ီျပီးမွ ဆက္သြားၾကတာမ်ိဳး
  • ဥံဳ မဏိ ပဒ္ေမ ဟုမ္ ( Om mani Padme Hum) ဆိုတဲ့စာေတြေရးထြင္းထားတဲ့ ဘုရားစာဘီးလုံး (Prayer Wheels) ေတြကို လွည့္ရင္း ဗုဒၶဘုရားကိုဝတ္ျပဳဖို႕သြားတဲ့ သူေတြ ၊ စသည္ျဖင့္ အေသအခ်ာျမင္ခဲ့ ၾကံုေတြ႕ခဲ့ရတယ္။
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