ACCESS is not only for Existed Climb O’Clock MEMBERS, but also to Everyone out there.
YOU ALL are Cordially invited to our SOFT OPENING of the Climb O’Clock REBORN, the NEWEST Rock Climbing Venue in town having deepest history of bouldering and climbing in the industry with longstanding service.
FREE ADMISSION for 3 DAY.
Day 1 >28 June 2018 (Thurs) 4pm to 8pm
Doors Open at 4pm
*Community Crank Night* til 8pm sharp.
Day 2 >29 June 2018 (Fri) 4pm to 8pm
Doors Open at 4pm
*Ladies First Session* (not limited to Men/Kids/Trans) til 8pm sharp.
Day 3 >30 June 2018 (Sat) 4pm to 8pm
Doors Open at 4pm
* *KIDS SPECIAL** (not limited to Adults and or superhero costumes)
Climbing, Getting High Without Drugs !
We are on GOOGLE MAP
Climb O’Clock Training / Bouldering Facility usage POLICIES
MOGS Showroom / Climb O’Clock Climbing Training Wall တြင္ေလ့က်င့္တက္ေရာက္ရန္အတြက္ ေအာက္ပါစည္းကမ္းခ်က္မ်ားကို ဖတ္႐ႈ သေဘာေပါက္လိုက္နာရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
• ေရွးဦးစြာ Bouldering အားကစားအားသေဘာေပါက္ရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။ Boulderingဆိုသည္မွာ ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္အားကစားနည္းမ်ားထဲမွ ေတာင္တက္ၾကိဳး/ေတာင္တက္ခ်ိတ္/Helmet စသည္တို႕မသုံးပဲတက္ရသည့္ ေတာင္တက္အားကစားတစ္ရပ္ျဖစ္ပါသည္။
•Bouldering တြင္ Safetyအတြက္ ( ေအာက္ခံေဖာ့ျပားအထူ ) Crash Pad မ်ားကိုအက်မနာေစရန္သုံးပါသည္။
• Bouldering အပါအဝင္ Sport Climbing / Speed Climbing အစရွိသည့္ ေတာင္တက္အားကစားနည္းမ်ားသည္ အႏၲရာယ္ရွိေသာ အားကစားနည္းျဖစ္ပါသည္။ ေလ့က်င့္ေနစဥ္/တက္ေရာက္ေနစဥ္အတြင္း ဒဏ္ရာအနာတရၾကီးငယ္မ်ားအပါအဝင္ အသက္အႏၲရာယ္အထိျဖစ္ႏိုင္သည္ကို သေဘာေပါက္နားလည္ရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။ ထိခိုက္မႈတစ္စံုတစ္ရာရွိခဲ့ပါက ကာယကံရွင္၏တာဝန္သာျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း MOGS showroom / Climb O’Clock Training ႏွင့္တကြ ပိုင္ရွင္/နည္းျပ/ ဝန္ထမ္းမ်ားႏွင့္သက္ဆိုင္ျခင္းအလ်င္းမရွိပါေၾကာင္းကို နားလည္သေဘာေပါက္၍ သေဘာတူညီလက္မွတ္ေရးထိုးရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
• ေလ့က်င့္တက္ေရာက္ရန္ ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္ Rock Climbing Shoe ကိုသာအသုံးျပဳရပါမည္။
• ေအာက္ခံေဖာ့ျပား (Crash Pad)ေပၚတြင္ ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္(သို႕မဟုတ္)ေျခဗလာျဖင့္သာနင္းခြင့္ျပဳပါသည္။သင္၏ဖိနပ္ေၾကာင့္ ေအာက္ခံေဖာ့ျပားေပါက္ျပဲပါက တန္ဖိုးအတိုင္းေပးေလ်ာ္ရပါမည္။
• ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ေျမျဖဴအမ်ိဳးအစားမ်ားထဲမွ Liquid Chalk ကိုသာအသုံးျပဳရမည္။ ( Loose Chalk မ်ား / Chalk Ball မ်ားအသုံးျပဳခြင့္မျပဳပါ။ )
• RENTAL SHOES – ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္ငွါးရမ္းအသုံးျပဳရာတြင္ တာဝန္က်ဝန္ထမ္းမ်ား၏လမ္းညႊန္ခ်က္အတိုင္းလိုက္နာရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။ (ဖိနပ္ေခ်ာင္ေခ်ာင္စီးပါက ရာဘာဆိုးမ်ားအလြယ္တကူပ်က္စီးေစပါသည္)
• ေလ့က်င့္တက္ေရာက္ရန္ တာဝန္က်ဝန္ထမ္းမွ အေျခခံမ်ားကို ကူညီရွင္းျပမည္ျဖစ္ေသာ္လည္း သင္တန္းနည္းျပျခင္းျပဳလုပ္မည္မဟုတ္ပါ။
• စနစ္တက်အခ်ိန္ေပးေလ့က်င့္လိုပါက သင္တန္းဆရာ Climbing Instructor မ်ားႏွင့္ ရက္ခ်ိန္းယူ၍ နည္းျပေၾကးထပ္ေဆာင္းေပးကာေလ့က်င့္ရန္ျဖစ္ပါသည္။
• မေတာ္တဆထိခိုက္မႈအတြက္တက္မည့္ကာယကံရွင္ကၾကိဳတင္သိရွိျပီးေၾကာင္း ကုမၸဏီ၏တာဝန္မဟုတ္ေၾကာင္းဝန္ခံလက္မွတ္ထိုးရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
• (၁၈ႏွစ္ေအာက္ လူရြယ္/ကေလးမ်ား မိဘ(သို႕မဟုတ္) အုပ္ထိန္းသူ၏ ခြင့္ျပဳခ်က္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
ဝင္ေၾကး ( DAY PASS – unlimited hours ) ၃,၀၀၀ က်ပ္ (ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ေဖိနပ္/ Liquid Chalk အစံုအလင္ရွိသူမ်ား)
Liquid Chalk အသုံးျပဳခ – ၁,၀၀၀ က်ပ္
Rental Shoes ေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္ဖိနပ္ငွါးရမ္းခ -၂,၀၀၀ က်ပ္
BEGINNER PACKAGE ( DayPass + Chalk + Shoes = ၅,၀၀၀ က်ပ္ )
အသက္၉ႏွစ္ေအာက္(သို႕မဟုတ္) ၄ေပေအာက္ကေလးမ်ား-KIDS DAY PASS ၂၀၀၀က်ပ္ ( KIDS PACKAGE > DayPass + Chalk + Shoes =၄၀၀၀က်ပ္)
တစ္နာရီလ်င္ – ၅၀၀၀က်ပ္ (သင္တန္းသားအမ်ားဆုံး၃ဦးသာ) ၾကိဳတင္ရက္ခ်ိန္းၾကိဳယူရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
Prices for Foreigners
Day Pass – (Adults) 5,000 MMK
Day Pass – (Kids) 4,000 MMK
Climbing Shoe Rental -2,000 MMK
Chalk Rental – 2,000 MMK (only liquid chalk)
Package – Adults – 8,000 MMK (DayPass+Shoe+Chalk)
Package – Kids – 7,000 MMK (DayPass+Shoe+Chalk)
(Coaching-Personal Instructors upon request (5,000 MMK per hour )
MON >6pm to 9pm
TUE-FRI >4pm to 9pm
SAT/SUN > 11am to 9pm
•တနလၤာ – ညေန ၆ နာရီမွ ည ၉နာရီ ထိ
•အဂၤါ/ဗုဒၶဟူး/ၾကာသာပေတး/ေသာၾကာ – မြန္းလြဲ ၃နာရီမွ ည ၉နာရီ ထိ
•စေန/တနဂၤေႏြ – မနက္ ၁၀နာရီမွ ည ၉နာရီ ထိ
ေလ့က်င့္ရန္ထားရွိသည့္Training Facility မ်ား
Climbing Wall Surface – ၃၄၀စတုရန္းေပ (340 sq/ft Plywood Bouldering Walls )
HRT Climbing Holds
FingerBoard & Hangboards ( Beastmaker / HRT )
Campus Rungs ( all facilities in Fully Air Conditioned Room with Dolby Surround Sound System , Gear Shop, Mini Libraryတို႕ပါဝင္ပါတယ္။ )
Rock Climbing & Bouldering Basic Course အေျခခံသင္တန္းမ်ားကို ႏိုင္ငံတကာအေတြ႕အၾကံုရင့္နည္းျပဆရာမ်ားက အပတ္စဥ္ဗုဒၶဟူးေန႕ညေန ၆နာရီကေန၇နာရီအထိဝင္ေၾကးေပးတက္ေရာက္သူတိုင္းကိုအခမဲ့သင္ၾကားေပးမွာျဖစ္ပါတယ္။အခမဲ့သင္တန္းအတြက္ သင္တန္းသားဦးေရ တစ္ပတ္လ်င္ ၅ဦးသာကန္႕သန္႕ထားပါသည္၊ ၾကိဳတင္စာရင္းေပးသြင္းရန္လိုအပ္ပါသည္။
Indoor Climbing Wall တြင္ လူၾကီးလူငယ္ အရြယ္မေရြး / က်ားမ မေရြးေလ့က်င့္အသုံးျပဳႏိုင္ပါသည္။
ေတာင္တက္အားကစားထြန္းကားပ်ံ႕ပြါးလာေစရန္နင့္ေတာင္တက္နည္းစနစ္မ်ားကိုပိုမိုေလ့လာႏိုင္ေစရန္တို႕အျပင္၂၀၂၀အိုလံပစ္မွအစျပဳျပီးအနာဂတ္အားကစားျပိဳင္ပြဲမ်ားတြင္ျမန္မာႏိုင္ငံေက်ာက္ေတာင္တက္အားကစားသမားမ်ား ႏိုင္ငံတကာအဆင့္ေပၚထြက္လာေစရန္အုပ္တစ္ခ်ပ္သဲတစ္ပြင့္အေထာက္အပံ့ျဖစ္ေစရန္လည္း ရည္ရြယ္ပါသည္။
Myanmar Climbing sprout is flourishing. It kept growing day by day since the pre TCCM era with Saya Steve to TCCM and now MRC era.
TCCM / MRC ??? what are they !!
Some Myanmar facebook users join MRC FB group – expected to see Rock Stars and to listen Burmese Rock songs. ( Myanmar Rock Community literally make’s it confused but still Rock Stars climbing images never let you down ). In fact MRC is not only Rocking, also from Reggae , Hip-Hop and even Burmese Punks. MRC is an Expat Dominant community ( pretty similar to neighboring climbing communities in SEAsia countries ). I take this as a great opportunity for local Myanmar Climbers to learn multi-cultures and improving climbing , with friends from various backgrounds. If MRC FB group founding date would be MRC’s birthday- it’d be 2nd Feb 2016. In nearly one year – MRC performs rapid growth in climbing scene- proved it with Hpa-An crags & sends and also with growing number of Climbers and their home Woodies.
TCCM members take the throne with Myanmar Everest & GamlangRazi First Ascents. Actually TCCM used to active in Sport Climbing scene in its beginning back in 2012, some first Bolted lines in Waterfall Hill but not seeing TCCMers at the crags these days. 14 Nov 2011 is TCCM’s birthday and during this 6 years TCCM primarily nailed some Big Mountains rather than crags.
There are many others climbers in Myanmar, local or expat / individuals or groupies – who climb on their own and or – with TCCM – MRC or anyone else, just like anywhere else in the world.
What makes difference ???? What drive Yangon climbers crazy ???
It’s the city -capital Yangon itself – with completely flat feature. This crowded city had no single gym / a crag/ or a rock to climb. ( I repeat – no Climbing Gym yet ).
Yangon’ is also home to MRC & TCCM .
Unfortunately MRC & TCCM & all climbing aficionados are pretty fucked up for training because of Yangon’s very bad geographical-feature.
(Distance to Crags – HpaAn is 465 km , Mandalay-625 km from Yangon.)
Solution is here – Woodies
Woodies !! Woodies !! Woodies !!
Yangon then having an awesome collection of neat – creative and pumpy home-walls. ( also one in Mandalay ). In Yangon, some walls are open for friends on Thursday Nights.
Yangon-Mandalay – all woodies offering bouldering at it’s best. There are already places to climb in Yangon -like Balance Fitness II and DOREMI Family club, but i have to say these places are too commercial and not as cool as our Myanmar Woodies in Towns.
Before the first woody in Yangon by TCCM – there are some few in-home climbing wall / woodies attempts by Tun & Lin (with the very limited resources ) – which later ended up for their kids – ( which is still cool.)
In late 2013- TCCM home wall is out – served with several cool sessions at AungZayYa Street, Yankin.
The VERY SECOND -probably the best and everyone’s favorite Woody in Town later came out in Dec 2015 at Andrew’s flat – there was even a comp held around 2016 New Year days with cool collection of Climbing Books and accessories prizes ( contributed by a secret climber ). This awesome MRC woody / Andrew+Katie’s woody is in Myaynigone Zay area , Sanchaung.
MRC woody / Andrew+Katie’s woody (photo Credit to Andrew & MRC folks)
At the same time, Ye Htut from Mandalay is working on his home wall, and currently finished as below images. Quite cool – isn’t it. Mandalay got no stress to reach a crag like Yangon. But this woody at Ye Htut house is simply the best example for the love of climbing – doesn’t matter how far or near to the crags are. Well done Ye Htut, your’e the best and become beast soon !
The flow of the Yangon woodies doesn’t stop. It come out even better. In mid 2016, there is the first open-air woody showed up by Cat & Ben. This rooftop one offers adrenaline with a great view of Yangon twinkling streetlights at Nyaung Tone street, Sanchaung (8th floor).
Cat & Bens woody (photo Credit to Andrew, Cat , Ben & PyaePhyo )
This growing woody culture is not ending yet. Jon welcomes MRC members to his neat woody at 6 Kyaun Kone Road (top floor) in Sanchaung and it’s also become part of the Yangon’s most favorite bouldering spot.
Jon’s woody (photo Credit to Jon Keesecker )
Meanwhile- a struggling outdoor gear company in Yangon is also coming up with it’s exciting woody. This wall is at MOGS showroom in MyanmaGonYe St, KanTawKalay.
Last minutes update about Yangon’s newest woody at Nadia’s home. This tall wall in Malikha Street. Probably the tallest woody so far -a non-overhanging version ( 90′ vertical ) with top rope option.
Rob & Nadia’s woody (photo courtesy- Nadia )
I am ending my article here – but i don’t think these woodies are not ended yet. There are some more to come – yet – Some Exciting – soon.
P.S > For anyone interest in climbing / training / bouldering or just hanging out with these woodies, please join MRC fb group and or check with TCCM or MOGS pages. MRC has bouldering sessions every THURSDAYS ( taking turns for hosting week by week – at Andrew flat – Cat&Ben’s rooftop or Jon’s ).
GaBarNi / KammParrNe (ဂဘားနီ / ကမ္းပါးနီ )
( Hidden Archaeological Site )
GaBarNi (21.067261N 96.262061E)
Regarding above photo caption, you may ask why this boulder is NOT FOR CLIMBING.
GaBarNi actually is a Sandstone boulder filed which most climbers will definitely fall in love.
GaBarNi area grabs my attention with its Gigantic Size Boulder, which comes to my mind as a Highballing Fantasy.
Later I put a very high value to GaBaNi , ( not as a climbing site despite a giant highball and many more boulders are there ) but because of it’s Discoveries on Archaeological values. This boulder deserve high level of conservation as a National Treasure as one of the Myanmar Ancestor’s archaeological and anthropological proofs .
It’s first discovery was just in recent years, in 2015 by U Win Bo , the local villager along with WunDwin local Artist/ amateur Archaeologist – U Soe Moe Naing. Those two were the first persons brought our attention to the site by public. Later recognized by Government sectors to International and National level Archaeologist and Anthropologists. Gabarni site is now under supervision of Myanmar Government and Local Authorities for conservation carried out by Department of Archaeology and the Ministry of Culture.
Let’s not climb it.
Let’s help to raise awareness and part of Conversation.
This site is named after KammParrNe ( GaBarNe ) – a nearby village, in western Shan State. Gabini has a nearby Famous Padalin Caves with many prehistoric rock art which in about 11km distance.
Parietal art from Gabarni
As per 23-Dec-2-16 News update from Department of Archaeology , Ministry of Culture ( Mandalay Department ). Department Official reveal the project to establish paved roads and also with washroom facilities. The project funded 4000 USD for the development of Archaeological Tourism and income generating of local communities while maintaining least impact to ecosystem.
to be NOTICE – Gabarni area is NOT FOR CLIMBING*** * (Reminder for you in Case if you get lost there and unexpectedly find this boulder in Myanmar Central Basin)
More Article about Gabarni here
ဒီ မီးင္ ထဲက (ေမာင္ေမာင္က ကိုဝင္းကို ကိုျပည့္ျဖိဳးတင္မကပဲ အျခားေသာ ေတာင္တက္သမားေတြကိုပါဆိုလိုပါတယ္။ )
သူတို႕က ျမန္မာျပည္ထဲမွာ တစ္ကယ္လုပ္ကိုင္ေနၾကသူေတြဆိုေတာ့ အလုပ္ရွုပ္သလို အခင္အမင္မပ်က္ခ်င္တာ စတာေတြေၾကာင့္ ေဝဖန္တာမလုပ္တာတို႕ ဝါသနာအရကိုပံုေတြစာေတြမတင္ၾကတာပါ
ကြၽန္ေတာ္က ေမာင္ေမာင္မဟုတ္ပဲ ဒိုးလုံး ျဖစ္ေနတဲ့အတြက္ ေဝဖန္ပါတယ္။
အခုလက္ရွိမွာ ေတာင္တက္ခရီးစဥ္ေတြ တိုးတက္လာပါတယ္။ အေရအတြက္ေကာအရည္အခ်င္းေကာပါ။
(မႏၲေလးက ေတာင္တက္သမားေတြ စပြန္စာမပါပဲ လိုလာေတာင္ကိုတက္ခဲ့တယ္ ) ဒါက ကိုယ့္နည္းကိုယ့္ဟန္နဲ႕ အေတြ႕အၾကံုကိုဝယ္ယူခဲ့ရတာပါ။ တစ္ေခါက္ ႏွစ္ေခါက္က ျပသနာမရွိပါ။
ခရီးစဥ္ တစ္ေခါက္စာေတြမွာ အဆင္ေျပေနေပမဲ့ ေရရွည္အတြက္ကေတာ့ အဆင္မေျပေသးပါဘူး။
စပြန္စာရွိတဲ့ခရီးေတြထဲက ထူးေဖာင္ေဒးရွင္းက ဧဝရတ္တက္ဖို႕ စပြန္စာေပးပါတယ္။
အားကစားသမားေတြအေနနဲ႕က စပြန္စာက ခရီးတစ္ေခါက္စာပဲရတာပါ။ သူတို႕ပစ္ထားခဲ့ရအလုပ္ ယူခဲ့တဲ့ Risk ကို မကာမိတာကေတာ့ အထူးအေထြေျပာေနစရာကိုမလိုတာ ကေလးေတာင္သိပါတယ္။
ဒါေပမဲ့လည္း ဘယ္သူမွ $ ဖက္မလုပ္ၾကပါဘူး။
ဒီေတာ့ professional အဆင့္ထိေရာက္လာေအာင္ ဘာေတြလုပ္ၾကမလဲ။
- formal training ေတြ ေပးႏိုင္တဲ့အဆင့္ထိေရာက္ေအာင္ႀကိဳးပမ္းပါ
- qualified ျဖစ္သလို certified လည္း ျဖစ္ဖို႔လိုလာပါၿပီ
- sponsor ေတြနဲ႔ contract မခ်ဳပ္ႏိုင္သေရြ႕ေတာ့ သင္ဟာ pro ဟုမဆိုႏိုင္ေသး
- ခရီးေတြအတြက္လည္း fully insured ျဖစ္ပါေစ
- Retirement အဆင့္အထိ ေတြးေတာပါ
ဘာရယ္မဟုတ္ဘူး အခုအခ်ိန္ထိ pro climber ေတြထြက္မလာေသးလို႔ အားမလိုအားမရျဖစ္တာနဲ႔ meme တစ္ခ်ိဳ႕နဲ႔ ခ်ေရးလိုက္တာပါ။ လိုအပ္ခ်က္ေတြကို အၾကံေပးၾကပါဦး။
ေတာင္တက္မေဟ့လို ဆိုလိုက္ရင္ ဖိုးလိုက္ခ်င္ေတြရွိၾကပါတယ္။ ဆင္ပစ္မယ္ က်ားျမႇီးအစိမ္းစားမယ္နဲ႕
တကယ္သြားမယ္လည္းလုပ္ေရာ ဖင္နာလို႕ ခါးနာလို႕ ဆုံးသြားတဲ့အဖိုးေနမေကာင္းလို႕ ဆိုျပီး တေရွာင္ေရွာင္ ျဖစ္သြားတာလည္းမေကာင္းပါဘူး။ ေတာင္တက္သမားေတြဖက္ကလည္းပဲ professional ဆန္ဖို႕လိုပါတယ္။ (notice the scumbag hats)
ဒီစပ္ကူးမတ္ကူးကာလမွာ ဘယ္ေတာ့ေျပာင္းလဲမလဲ ဘယ္ေတာ့လမ္းပြင့္လာမလဲ ထိုင္ေစာင့္ေနရင္တာထက္စာရင္ ပိတ္ထားတဲ့ တံခါးေတြကို တြန္းဖြင့္ဝင္မွသာ အခြင့္အလမ္းေတြ ေပၚေပါက္လာမွာျဖစ္ပါေၾကာင္း
It is always in most adventure junkie’s DREAM to do something BIG “whoa-things” or something COOL, like climbing Highest Mountain in the World or Rappelling into Deepest Caves or Hike through PCT in shortest duration. As a dedicated boulderer like me, I always seeks something which I feel FUN doesn’t matter which is big or small. A small plastic climbing holds from Rock Republic to House Size Boulders in RAK or High Balls in Hampi can satisfy me. As I am working in Dubai as an office clerk as well as in a boulder gym , I always have tight schedule of work. Dubai lifestyle crammed my days into work and home luckily with weekly outdoor exposure. Being a climbing aficionado mainly on Boulders and Sport Crags, often on Myanmar & India Himalaya ranges, my holidays used to be super budget trips. I even though myself an ANTI-EVEREST person who is trying to avoid all these Wallet Crying Adventures, like Everest or Kilimanjaro and stuffs.
But HEY, LIFE is full of Surprise. In late 2015, my homie from Myanmar send me a short message, “ Are you joining with me…………….. to EVERST ? I thought he was fooling me around , so my quick reply was, “HELL YEAH” , and after covering the whole story in a few chat, it came to realization that this sh*t gonna happen for sure. And everything will be FULLY SPONSORED. Climbing Expedition, of course organized by guiding company, expected crowd at EBC as well as long queue on the most frequent climbed southeast ridge route. But I am born-ready for climbing whether in Rock republic or Jebel Jais or even Everest. And reaching the 8848-metre summit of Everest maybe the most prized goal in the world of mountaineering; however we seek the First Apline routes in Myanmar in the past, this time is challenging too as no Myanmar national has tasted that glory. And we could be the first.
Long story short, my climbing buddies, Pyae Phyo & WinKo did one of Myanmar’s Highest Mt.Gamlang Razi Alpine Frist Ascent in 2013. The same sponsoring company sponsoring a crew to Everest in 2014, unfortunately, Myanmar First Everest team were luckily escaped from EVEREST WORST disaster which killed 16 Nepalese Sherpas during the tragic avalanche on Khumbu Icefall western spur.
This time 2016, Myanmar EVEREST Team will be REFORMED, with Pyae, Win and one more, and the one additional lucky guy was me, who work in Dubai as a boulderer. It make me realize that my 11 year continuous craziness on mountains and NOLS Himalaya Mountaineering experiences are starting to pay off .
Myanmar Everest Team reformed with three climbers WinKoKo, PyaePhyoAung and myself (NyiNyiAung) whom representing TCCM ( Technical Climbing Club of Myanmar) sponsored by HTOO group of companies ,HTOO FOUNDATION,AGD BANK,YAG(Yangon Airport Group),Htoo Housing and Property Development,*Asian Wings Airways and with many other support from our friends and Families.
Most importantly my company GLOBAL CLIMBING, with generous support from Pete, who give me such long Leave for 3 months , also Vanda and all colleagues who are willing to share my workload during my climb.
Three of us flew to Kathmandu in January as a preparation to meet cordial hosts from Nepal, Sumit Joshi and team from Himalayan Ascent who gonna help us from base – to – the top of the world.
We officially started Myanmar Everest Expedition from Yangon International Airport on 26-March. The uncertainties of an expedition started from LUKLA flight for Everest trip . We spend 2 days in small airport and flights are kept canceling due to bad weather. However, we were not very disappointed because we can catch up hipsters in the town at International Tattoo Convention happening the same time.
We then landed to Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary airport runways and start our hike to base camp. Hiking from Lukla to EBC is stunning. From Base Camp and beyond are also terrifically & beautifully surrounded. We all brought our National Flag to Hoist on the Summit of Everest, as well as sponsoring company’s flags.
I brought a UAE flag that I got from MOE Home Centre gave-away during UAE National Day and one BUFF-UAE flag bandana too. I intended to bring UAE flags to show my gratitude to UAE where I currently work and grow.
From the gear shops in Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp, we make many new friends including UAE Armed Forces Everest Expedition Team members, Paul, Gerald, and also our Emirati friends Saeed, Nasser, Abdul and many more. We took selfies together and stand aside for high Fives on the sketchy Khumbu Icefall. UAE team is acclimatizing at Lobuche East while we are doing rotations of acclimatization on Khumbu Ice Fall many times.
On our third rotation to High Camp, Camp 3 at 6800, my body starts to wear and tear. 4th of May 2016, during our early morning start from Everest Camp 2 -6400m my heart pounding up to 180 bmp and my fingers and toes starting to freeze near the Crampon point before climbing up on Lhotse face. I tried to continue but finally I listen to the wise advice from my Sherpa Guide “Lopseng Sherpa”. Me and Lopseng decided to go back to Camp-2 and then next day descending to EBC to do the medical checks . Doctors from EVEREST.ER base camp are very helpful, checking all details including ECG and scans to find out whether it is HAPE or AMS ( Acute Mountain Sickness), but all is clear apart from Scary High Heart Rate, which still maintain 120bpm at Base Camp.
It is not very easy to make decision “NOT to continue the CLIMB”. But there are many factors which make me to decide not only for my personal safety and health, mainly to MEET the GOAL of our TEAM to raise the Myanmar Flag on Everest Summit. Our summit team consists of 3 Climbers ( Pyae, Win and myself ) accompanied by 4 Sherpa guides, total of 7. Since I dropped out from the summit push, two of my partners will have 2 Sherpa each. This is going to become 1 Climber: 2 Guide ratios which sound a lot safer and make me to believe to have butter Summit Success Rate. I decided to gamble with this overcrowded queue. This mountain was closed for 2 years, 2014 Avalanche Disaster & 2015 Earthquake. @ Continuous off –climbing seasons lined up pending approved permits. 18 MAY and 19 MAY are going to be packed with people as these days are marked as best weather window days.
I made a decision to stepping back myself and equip all we have to two of Myanmar climbers with Sherpas and Oxygens to make our ONE AIM of Putting the National Flag on top of the world. Two of my friends had a hard time to leave me at the base, but finally they accepted my suggestions. Fortunately, I am still fit to wait at the Base Camp; I don’t have to fly to Kathmandu for medication. Everest Base Camp doctors approved my stay at our Himalayan Ascent base camp, later where I spend most of my days and nights in the Communication Tent contacting my teammates through Radio and Sat Phones.
Two of my friends Pyae & Win are continuing the climb for the summit push on coming 15 May 2016. I had made my best support to my team from EBC throughout their climb, but the key is perseverance and Strength of both mind and body of my teammates , Pyae & Win is the only factor to made to the top.
On 19 May 2016, the new History was made.
The two mountaineers, Pyae Phyo Aung and Win Ko Ko, planted Myanmar flag on Everest’s peak after climbing overnight to reach to the top of the World, 8850 meters on 19 May , 7am while I am at the Base Camp near Puja Stone listening on the Walkie Talkie.
“We reached the top at 7:07 this morning,”
I jumped ,with trambing fingers and tearing at the same time. Folks from the Himalayan Ascent Base Camp, Sumit, Deepak and all crews come and shake my hand for the first ascent of Myanmar on Everest. We all know Summit is just only the HALFWAY, their safe descent is key to complete the climb. Waiting at EBC for my teammates descent is quite as terrifying as the ascent too. Base Camp staffs burnt the same amount of Juniper Leaves and scattering rice seeds toward the mountain for the blessing of Sagarmatha and good auspicious of safe climb and smooth descend.
On 21 May, I climbed beyond the Crampon Point on Khumbu Icefall to welcome two of my friends, Pyae and Win. Pyae Phyo Aung , my same batch last bencher homie since 2003 Physics class, looks strong with many mild burn on his face. Pyae sunglasses screwed with oxygen mask and he often lift the google up to defrost the mask, he had mild snow blind and his eyes are sore. We made a hug like we haven’t seen for 13 years. An hour later Win Ko Ko, my classmate from GIS class 2010, also a veteran climber & NOLS graduate came down the ice fall with smiling face, he had a Terrible Burn with Pitch Black skin on cheeks and nose tips. For myself I am maintaining at the Everest base camp due to my health condition.
Apart from these, First Myanmar Everest Ascent is very SUCCESSFUL with neither fatility nor severe injury, 3 out of 2 climbers made to the summit of Everest for the first time in year of 2016. This success also coincides with the new Democracy Government ruling the country after escaping Military Junta for 2 decades. This year 2016 season confirmed with 6 fatality and many frost bites because of the long queue on summit days. Their souls are with the mountain, we will contemplate their memorial stones next trip with our condolences. There are several rescues happened during the climb too. Oddly, there is one fake summit-claim by Indian couple, who were now banned to Nepal peaks. And as usual so many things of badge seekers deals happening during the reopen of Everest 2016 season this year. We are glad we made it thought cleanest as we can, enduring all these shenanigans of the commercial climbing on Everest.
Although I have not made it to the top, I am very satisfied by the climb, “it’s not only the Summit which made up the mountain, but also its faces. I do enjoy every moment while I climb. Climbing on ladders or on the snow, crossing on the aluminum ladders of Khumbu Icefall or jumping over pitch crevasses, hearing the avalanches from nearby Nuptse Face or West Shoulder are all counted. I have taken part of the history of Myanmar’s First Everest ascent while I’m working in the Desert Sand Pit.
Our half body life-size statues are now in Myanmar Sport Museum of (Ministry of Health & Sport ) along with many other International 4 Gold Medalist Athletes.
We honestly didn’t expect that, but this time, my Desert to Everest trip mark something historic and pretty epic. Thanks to UAE deserts and mountains for giving me contrast life from Nepal Mountains, but I will always be grateful for what I got while working in UAE, the city and colleagues.
I still keep my Myanmar National Flag and also UAE National flag in my backpack-brain hopeful to make a bridge in future climbs for a better sporty friendship between this two beautiful nations.
Sherpa Team & Myanmar Everest Climbers (L to R – NjimaTenzingSherpa, myself(NyiNyi) , PasangGaljenSherpa, WinKoKo, UrkenSherpa, PyaePhyoAung, LopsengSherpa at “Himalayan Ascent Camp” Everest basecamp )
Twenty year ago today, Ozaki & Nyima Gyaltsen made the very first and historic ascent of Mt Hkakabo Razi (5881 m).
Those were the days Myanmar is known for legendary inaccessible land back in 1990s.
Ozaki made his way to conquer this magical mountain of Northernmost Myanmar NOT very easily. He have tried since 1993, his application took 2 years for the approval.
In 1995 , “OZAKI FAMILY EXPEDITION” which consists of ten members ( including his wife, Frederique and their two children – Makoto (10 y/o ) & Sarah (7 y/o ) became first foreigners to step into Hkakaborazi national park area again after more than 58 years by botanist Kindom Ward (the first British Botanical Expedition led by Kingdom Ward during the colonial era in 1937 ). Ozaki Family Expedition 1995 wasn’t a successful expedition but importantly , all climbing crew come back down safely after they climbed up to 5100m , C2, many difficulties like falling seracs cut down the fixed ropes and the upper glaciers formed new dimesion crevasses due to rapid changes of avalanches etc. But it was a very succssful first attempt which contribute Ozaki’s successful summit bit in 1996.
In 1996 September 15 (3:12 pm ) Ozaki & Nama Gwaltsen successfully climbed the summit of Mt Hkakabo Razi, roof of Southeast Asia & Myanmar Highest Summit.
Ozaki, at that time already climbed 8 of the 14 EightThousanders including Everest North face first ascent 1980 & Everest Winter ascent 1983 .The veteran Mountaineer & Climber Ozaki’s commented on Mt. Hkakabo Razi that – “It was a very mysterious mountain,”.
“We are always looking for the more difficult climb — this is the spirit of alpinism,” he said in an interview in Yangon after the climb. “But we had to fight the weather constantly. I can say absolutely that Hkakabo Razi is one of the most difficult and dangerous mountains in the world. I was never scared before, like this time — I wanted to always run away from this mountain.” (quote-Steph Article )
Following are the images of Hkakabo Razi expedition 20 year ago and some images are even more than 21 years form Ozaki family expedition. I would like to thank Mrs. Frederique Gely-Ozaki & family for letting historic images appears in this blog. Also thanks to MHMF ( Myanmar Hiking & Mountaineering Federation ) images archives from Ko Thet Tun, Ko Kyaw Aye & MHMF members.
Long story short, this is my conclusion of this article. Images can explain better than me about the 1995 & 1996 Hkakabo Razi expedition.
( This article is dedicated to 20th Anniversary of Hkakabo First Ascent , the legendary climber Takashi Ozaki (Japan, 1951- May 14, 2011) & Nyima Gyaltsen (aka “Aung Tse”) and all expedition members. )
Ozaki & Nyima Gyaltsen posing with Myanmar , Japen & France national flags at the summit of Mt,KKBo (5881 m) 3:12 pm 1996 September 15 (i would like to credit the photo to Takashi Ozaki ) Photo Courtesy Ozaki Family : Special Thanks to Fredrique Gley Ozaki
Summit Ridge and Glacier Climbs
Welcoming back the Summit Team at Base Camp
Base Camp Views
View of Hkakabo Razi, the Mystical Mountain
Spirit of Alpine Climbing
Ozaki Family expedition 1995
Publications of Hkakabo